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  1. #1
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    Default Norton gearbox disassembly?

    Before I get myself into hot water, I need some advice.

    Have just pulled the gearbox off the lathe, for a thorough clean and repaint.

    Ideally I would like to dismantle the whole gearbox, but don't know where to start. I have the lead screw out and am staring at a mass of gears and shafts etc.

    My spare parts booklet is close to useless, the diagrams are just not clear enough.

    Does anyone have an exploded view that shows where all the parts go together. I know Hercus did not produce such drawings, but Southbend did.

    If you have done this before, your help would be appreciated either verbally or with an exploded isometric drawing.

    Ken

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  3. #2
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    Ken to minimize any disassembly or assembly problems can you just clean it and paint.
    If your gears are damaged that will be a different matter.
    Not sure how much difference there is between the 260 and the 9" but ask Mal Allterrain50 hes broken a Metric 260 box down,he might have some tips for you.

  4. #3
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    Hi Pipeclay,

    If I could just remove the shaft that holds the two gear selector arms, I'd be happy with that. Some of the internal gears have surface rust, but I'm sure I could treat them insitu.

    The outside of the gear box was originally factory green, then hand painted by darling little school students, sky blue with paint everywhere including the brass gear chart, charming.

    Thanks for your advice, perhaps Mal Allterrain50 will join the conversation.

    Ken

  5. #4
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    Default

    G'day Ken,
    I have just stripped and rebuilt my 260 gearbox and as pipeclay says I am not sure how similar it is to a 9" but if they are then there is a tapered retaining pin at the leadscrew end which is driven in from the rear of the box. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures when I stripped mine but I have circled the location and you can just see it in the attached picture.

    The pin passes through a groove in the tumbler shaft then protrudes into the main cavity of the gearbox and bends slightly.
    It was a bit of a bugger to get out as you can't hit it directly end on but I used a piece of square bar as a drift and hit it sideways and it came out after a bit of messing around.

    When this pin is removed the tumler shaft can be tapped out of the gearbox housing. Make sure you clean the shaft as best you can before hammering it out so as not to damage the brass bushing in the center support.

    Hope this helps mate.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  6. #5
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    Default

    kwijibo99,

    That's great, in tomorrow's daylight I will look for the "secret pin".

    Many thanks,

    Ken

  7. #6
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    Just out of curiosity when you rebuilt the gearbox for the 260 did you make or purchase your new gears,how much were they if you dont mind me asking,I never know how much to charge for Gearbox Gears.

  8. #7
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    G'day pipeclay,
    Sorry, perhaps rebuilt was not quite the right term, I only stripped and cleaned the gearbox, none of the gears needed replacing.
    It's probably a habit from working with old engines but when I get a new piece of machinery I have to stip it down completely, part to be sure everything is servicable and where it should be and part just to see how it all works.
    When I have a bit of spare coin I will however have to buy one of your 63/60 transposing gears so I can cut imperial threads on my metric 260.
    Cheers mate,
    Greg.

  9. #8
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    Greg,

    Externally, your 260 gearbox is quite different from the 9". The pin you have circled is non existent on my gearbox, and in any case, that particular boss is for the lead screw, on my unit.

    It's the next shaft up I want to remove. I think it is called the tumbler shaft. In you photo it has already been removed.

    Thanks anyway for the info.

    Edit, just cleaned my glasses, and scraped away a build up of paint to reveal a pin. Is this pin tapered? On my gearbox, it appears both ends of this pin have been peened flush with the casting.

    Ken
    Last edited by neksmerj; 3rd January 2010 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Had a closer look

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  11. #10
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    Default

    You're spot on Ken, I circled the wrong part of the picture. The penny should have dropped when I mentioned the bushing which of course supports the lead screw and input shaft. Not sure what that spot is I did circle.

    I have attached the correct picture although it sounds like you have found the pin.

    Mine was peaned over on one end but I figured the tapered pin had been hammered in until tight then the excess length cut and the remaining protrusion peaned flush.

    Sorry about the misinformation.

    Cheers,
    Greg.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kwijibo99 View Post
    G'day pipeclay,
    Sorry, perhaps rebuilt was not quite the right term, I only stripped and cleaned the gearbox, none of the gears needed replacing.
    It's probably a habit from working with old engines but when I get a new piece of machinery I have to stip it down completely, part to be sure everything is servicable and where it should be and part just to see how it all works.
    When I have a bit of spare coin I will however have to buy one of your 63/60 transposing gears so I can cut imperial threads on my metric 260.
    Cheers mate,
    Greg.
    Hello Greg,

    The 63/60 gear is used for an imperial 260 to cut metric threads.

    If you wish to cut imperial threads on a metric 260 Hercus, you will need a 64/63 transposing gear. You will also need the following gears for a model AM 260; 33t, 36t, 39t, 42t, 48t, 60t. In addition, if you need to cut 11 1/2 tpi (NPT 1-2in) you will require a 46t, which is not shown on the Hercus chart.

    For models BM & CM 260; 24t, 30t, 54t, & 72t are also required.

    Regards,

    Chas.
    Last edited by Chas; 3rd January 2010 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Additional information

  13. #12
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    Hi Greg,

    Looks like we have two threads here running at the same time! Back to the gearbox. Yes I found the pin and was able to drive it out part way. The length of my punch is about 10mm too short so had to resort to a short length of wire. No go, the pin appears stuck and everything I use as a punch, just bends. It's out about 20mm with 10mm more to go. Checking the diameter, it's about 3.18mm and parallel not tapered. Maybe the original pin was lost and replaced with a nail!

    May have to sacrifice a drill bit or something similar as a punch.

    Thanks for your advice, would have been lost without it.

    Ken

  14. #13
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    Might be a better and safer option Ken to sacrifice some dollars a get a punch that will suit.
    Have you thought of using a welding rod cut to a little more than the diameter of the housing and using a drift to hit it with.

  15. #14
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    G'day Ken,
    Sounds like this may be a difference between the 9" and the 260? I could not have got a pin punch onto the 'hammer out' end of the pin in the 260 gearbox so perhaps it was tapered to facilitate removal.
    Sounds like a good excuse to buy a set of long pin punches.
    Can you grip the protruding section of the pin in a vice and tap the housing with a dead blow hammer? Gently gently of course.
    Good luck mate.

    Thanks for the info Chas, I knew it was a 60 something compound gear I need.

    Cheers,
    Greg.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Thanks fellas,

    Finally got the pin out, and the tumbler shaft without breaking anything. The rest should be easy, famous last words. I do have another question, which I will ask in another thread re removing the gear data plate.

    Ken

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