Thread: What blade wood you use.

Tell me about it ! Last year I tried to stack cut some maple that was about 1 1/4" thick and it just ate up the blades. In the end, I persevered with Flying Dutchman #3 Polar blades, having given up on Hegner Pebeco and Olson blades of varying sizes. The project still gobbled up the FDs, though.

Gill

When I started scrolling the guys were all using #3 and below... since I was the only one doing puzzles on 3/4" pine I thought it was really hard going.... then I smarted up , let go of pride and went to #5, then 7 and actually have used #9 on 1/2" blackwood and also birdseye elm..... what a lifesaver..... scrolling is fun again!

Ok..... so #7 won't let you do nice on the spot turns, but you can get around that by cutting into the corners from different directions. there's no way I'd tackle 1" with a #3 if I could help it.

here are some pics of what I did with a #5 reverse blade on 1/4" claret ash

Juvy

Ian, 25mm hard maple....tough on any blade. I have cut 3/4" hard maple using a #5R blade and went thru several blades and took forever. If you have any polar blades.....or regualr skip tooth.....or even double tooth they may cut a bit easier for you but you may have more clean up on the back side....A #7 or #9 would be better choice for the thickness but if the cuts are tight and intricate they won't give you the control on the turns you need. I recently have tried the Pegas brand of blades and do like them. They are agressive like the FD blades but I do feel I have a bit more control over them and they seem to cut straighter. Have been using #3 modified geometry blades in 1/2" exotics....Extrememly hard wood like zebrawood, tulipwood, and kingwood using these blades with very good results.
Another avenue to try when you feel up to cutting loose with the bucks.....
PS Woods (can't find the link in my favorites) (typing in PS WOODS as a serch will probalbly find it) carries a blade called the super sharp. They don't have reverse teeth but will cut the thick wood better than you cold imagine. They are very expensive in comparsion to all the other blades. I personally use them for compond cutting....1.5" wood for the Diana Thompson ornaments or thing like "Grandpa's Wonder" puzzle. Keeping a blade from bending in those cutting is a must and the super sharps work great....
Lin

I'm curious.. what's grandpa's wonder puzzle????

Juvy

Posting a few pics from different angles of "Grandpa's Wonder Puzzle" I cut a bunch of these at x-mas time for co-workers. I gave them away taken apart in a plastic bag with a little riddle about the puzzle itself......They are a lot of fun the first time you put it together...once you figure out the trick the puzzle is really easy to put together. I cut them from glued up 3/4" butternut with 1/4" aspen in the middle. Total thickness was 1.75".
Lin

Rescueseven,

I can't answer your question. But I wonder where you are in Northern Colorado - I spent four years in Greeley in the late 90's. But I hear that the Greeley Woodcrafters have folded through lack of interest.

Rocker

Gill,
I do have some FD Polars, my choice for cutting Corian.

Juvy,
I think bigger is better for this thick stuff, but I have already drilled the whole piece and I know a #7 anything won't fit in the current holes.

Thanks for the pix; great looking pieces!

Lin,
I don't have any of Pegas blades, but this may be an excuse to send Ben some money. I have heard good things about the MGR's. Took a look over at PS Woods, 10 bux a dozen:eek:, yikes, but if there that good... Anyone know what Diana Thompson uses? Thanks for the pix of the wonder puzzle, I'm gonna add that to the stack of things to cut.

Rocker,
4 years in Greeley?!?!?! The only reason anyone spends 4 years in Greeley is to get edumacated, so I'm assuming you were a student, or maybe even a visiting prof. I did see in one of your previous posts that you spelled angstrom using the more respectful and appropriate spelling of Ångström (Anders Jonas wood be proud), so you are obviously a smart guy. Back to your question, I live in Johnstown, some 12 miles (19 km) WSW of Greeley. I did work in Greeley from '96 to 2000 and back again for a short time in 2003, I now work in Boulder. Do you think I could build one of your rockers with a scroll saw?


Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions,

Ian

bite the bullet and redrill the holes.... better then getting impatient during cutting and messing things up.
Juvy

Juvy,
I know it sounds silly that I don't want to drill the holes again, but some of the cut areas are so small that the bit I used (#61, .99mm) goes from one side to the other. I am using a FD #3 Polar (did he say #3?) blade now and its doing what I want. Nice finish inside, good veritcal cut, decent speed, no burning, tight corners. Only down side is the fuzzys on the back which should be easy to get off when I'm done.

Ian

nope, not silly at all.... specially if you found a blade that'll do what you want. I just found that with my saw ( or my impatients?) I just can't get a #3 to give me a good vertical cut.
Whatever works is the right thing

Juvy

Originally Posted by rescueseven

I am using a FD #3 Polar (did he say #3?) blade now and its doing what I want. Nice finish inside, good veritcal cut, decent speed, no burning, tight corners.

:eek:

What? Do you mean I've actually given some good advice? It's just as well I was sitting down when I read that .

Gill

Originally Posted by Gill

:eek: What? Do you mean I've actually given some good advice?

You make it sound like you usually give bad advice. And I know thats just not true.

Thanks again to all that shared their thougts,

Ian

I might add, was the topic title pun intended

Iain,

How else wood I title a thread on a wouldworking forum?
Love your name, but one of us can't spell .

Ian