Thread: Cleaning up edges from Scroll Saw cuts

I don't know much about scroll sawing, but this is what I've used to clean up after the bandsaw ...........to sand the hills I used a fixed belt sander (clamp a portable one down on its side even) or a disk sander........and to sand the valleys use one of those drum sanders. Can buy different diameter ones that go on your drill press.

Be other ways no doubt.

Star, yes you can use a Dremel or rotary tool as they are known. There are some xheaper brands out there. You can scout around the cheap shops for the boxes of bit and pieces for these tools as well, for around twenty dollars or so. They will of course whizz out large chunks if you are not real handy with them. Now for a safer way or just an alternative way, get yourself a set of little files at the same cheap shops. Also, those nail filing boards used for manicuring. These can get into the tiny areas without ripping off an integral part to your pattern.

I use a rotary tool on bigger thicker projects, but when you get good at it, these tools can do a great job. Those kits by the way, have cutting wheels, and grinding disks, which are very nifty. Wear your safety glasses at all tims though.

Thanks Apricot and Buzza.

Buzza, I think you appreciate where I am at. I had a practice with my cheap Ozito Rotary Tool mounted in a Dremel Drill stand. I agree with you, just a bit to aggressive for me at the moment.

I have a few of those cheap files, I will get them out and have a play, Might have to hide the nail files as the family might think I am going a bit funny especially with me being caught with some panty hose to use as filter for some paint and stain.

I am a senior cit soon, and my old mate was just bordering on it when we did some painting around the place for a living. My mate would "break the ice" with ladies by asking them if they could give him any old panty hose they had laying around. As soon as the shock took place, he would quickly add why he wanted them . . they are great paint sieves.

I used my Dremel originally by hand, but on pieces that would have been two centimetres thick or more.

This is my favourite "Gone Fishing" sign, made from old pallets found about the place. Once cut, the Dremel comes into its own rounding off the egdes. The lettering I leave with sharp edges, but smooth off the saw marks from the walls of the cuts, once again with the Dremel drum sanding tool.

Have a look at the link below its a video from youtube, it shows how to turn your scrollsaw into a sanding station. I have tried it myself and it gives you a good finish but you have to be careful as it will break some of the thinner pieces of your work.
On larger areas you may want to use a disc sander or as you suggested a Dremel.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itRhXfyk-v8"]YouTube - Turn your scroll saw into a sanding station[/ame]

Hope this helps you

I love using the dremel router table to round over edges, but find the dremel way too aggressive for sanding fine scroll work.
Same goes for using the saw itself. Whatever I try, I always go back to handsanding, there's just no better way... not the fastest... but it gives the best results.
I too have a set of needlefiles , but ended up using just two of them frequently... I have used nailfiles, but more often use sandpaper for my nails then the other way around! lol
To get in fine corners I just fold the sandpaper , fine lines I'll pull the corner of an unfolded piece through.... sometimes giving the piece a good blast with the air compressor or a quick use of the shop vac will clear those veining cuts after using the sandpaper.

For long straight edges the beltsander is good.
The guys at the club keep telling me to cut straight lines and circles a bit outside the line and then just sand them back. Of course I just can't do that... it's a challenge every time to see if I can cut a circle without wobblies.

Juvy

It appears the problems I am facing go with the art. Does the hardiness of the material being cut affect the quality and evenness of the cut.

I have been using some very soft N.G. White cedar, I cant think of its name, but starts with C. It is soft and very light. It is annoying and instead of being a relaxing hobby, it is having the opposite effect.

Might have to give it a break for a while and absorb as much information as I can before having another crack at it. My present mood and frustration is not helping my scroll sawing and is starting to affect other parts of my life.

I thought that this caper would be easy, but not for this person.

Awwwww. don't give up yet Star.... it's just "birthing" problems...
Yes.... I find that I get much cleaner cut with hardwood.... less fuzzies... but with the right blade you should be allright with softer wood too.
If you can... do try to get some modified geometry ones. I've cut 3/4 - 1" pine with them and got a really nice smooth cut... just a quick going over the edges with sandpaper removed a small amount of fuzz... nothing dramatic tho.

If you are talking about the waviness of your cut, then all I can tell you is practise practis practis... best not to count on a first project to come out 100%.... do some kids puzzles and things were it doesn't matter... do enough of them and suddenly you'll notice you've got the hang of it.

I taught an 74 year old lady .... she started before x-mas and did a clock in February!!!!

Keep on scrolling

Juvy

Keju.

I have heard that older women pick up scroll sawing more easily then men. One of the reasons is the majority of elder women know how to sew so can follow a pattern and wizz around a line.

Might not hold true for the younger generation because kids clothes are a lot cheaper from China these days so the financial necessity is not there. Also older ladies generally were more homemakers and the later generation are nearly all duel income.

I will have a play again after a few days break. I have a young grandson so some puzzles might be worth ago besides it is getting a bit cooler now so I could use some firewood soon if things do not improve.

You are 100% right Star...... I've been telling this to all the women I've taught.... and it's true... if they're used to sewing , they're used to following a line... same hand/eye coordination... so yep.. this is definately one time women have it a bit easier.
You're also right about the younger generation.. had my 12 year old niece here one day ..... sheeesh... it scared her - she shook so badly she couldn't saw at all! lol On the other hand... had an 8 and a 10 year old boy... now that was pure joy..... watchign them just go for it.. totally unafraid and full of their own ideas! My own kids were just 6 and 7 when I let them have a go.... they are now in their 30s and both still have all their fingers

Back to puzzles.... easiest is to ask your grandkids to draw you their favourite animal.... then make interlocking pieces inside.. if you'd like help scan the picture in and send it to me I'll do that for you.
No matter how badly you'd cut these.. the kids will love them because they can see that you valued their "work" enough to make a puzzle out of it.
Just make sure you have the blad 100% square, use 3/4" timber and at least a #5 blade... don't listen to the experienced guys who want you to use a #3 or lower.. these are kids puzzles.. we dont' want them to bind... they need to be on the loose side. That of course also helps should your blade not be 100% square....
If you need help squaring the blade.. let us know... I'm not good explaining things, but you can do that with a square block of wood... no other tools needed. somone here'll surley be able to explain this.

Most of all... quit worrying about it. just go for it and have fun.. if there are too many fuzzies and bumps.... let the kids help with sandpaper

You can worry about being precise sometime down the track.

Juvy

Thanks Keju

Taking all this in and will have a play on the week end.