Thread: Excalibur Table Top

Originally Posted by joez

or am i missing something?joez

Not sure but I am sure someone will tell you.

Have you thought about just cutting the table top profile out of some laminex and contact cementing it to the top of the table?

Not sure but would giving it a bit of a polish work. I know we polish the steel tops perhaps the aluminium ones need the same treatment. Just an idea.

Marg

whats wrong with it maybe a photo Edited Is this the one http://www.awtwood.com.au/Default.asp?p=PT&id=1303

Looks like a painted surface to me

Aluminium does oxidise over time

if its badly pitted there are chemical cleaners available but dangerous to use,
a light sand with finest available and or an Aluminium polish will do wonders

The thin Laminate or even perspex idea is also good but don't glue it down make edge pieces up around the outside it will old it in place

Thanks for the feedback, the surface is painted, it think it might be the paint coming off. Not sure why they'd paint anything as soft as this.

I havent been in the workshop for a while , will take some pics and try some of the suggestions out.

joez

Just did a quick google search and found the attached pic, on this website : http://scrollsawblog.com:8085/scrollsawblog/?p=2110


joez

Originally Posted by joez

Just did a quick google search and found the attached pic, on this website : http://scrollsawblog.com:8085/scrollsawblog/?p=2110


joez

Is this yours or one similar Joez

looks very much a painted surface to me

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Is this yours or one similar Joez

looks very much a painted surface to me

Yes its been painted for sure, no thats not mine, just a picture i found on google of a new one out of the box. Imagine what it will look like with a little use...

joez

Joez a good sand back and re-spray would do wonders or remove the paint with a paint stripper light sand of the Aluminium and a good wax.

Got to ask the question of what is the cause to get that effect, are you dragging someting between the wood and the table to cause that effect.

We use traditional wax on the table to help the peice run smoother over the table helps avoid pushing the peice too hard.

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

Got to ask the question of what is the cause to get that effect, are you dragging someting between the wood and the table to cause that effect.

We use traditional wax on the table to help the peice run smoother over the table helps avoid pushing the peice too hard.

Hi Jim, the top in the picture, is not my scrollsaw just one showing some damage similar to what i am experiencing. If you follow the link to the website, the top is actually of a new scrollsaw and the damage was caused by the blade rubbing on the top during transit. I think the painted surface could be making it appear worse than it really is.

I'm a new scrollsawer so i might be doing something to scratch the top (but i doubt it) i've only put through maybe 20 peices of 6mm MDF and my tops showing considerably more damage than the one in the picture.

Too be honest it doesnt bother me too much, if it does i'll probably make a new top out of steel, but for the price i expected a more durable top or even a steel top option. Whilst the scrollsaw seems very good i am not sure i'd recommend one becuase of this issue.

thanks
joez

I was in Carbatec on Saturday and I was looking at the Excalibur 21 and the table was all scratched and there was a tiny piece of the coating completely gone on the side of the table. Has you say for the money you would expect value for it.

Marg

I have recently purchased the Excalibur 21" scroll saw and found that after scrolling with ply wood the surface became slightly damaged.
I checked whether the table was aluminium and found it to be steel.
Hence my conclusion is that if the surface is powder coated, the surface has a limited life. My experience with powder coating is limited to goods manufactured and coated for weather protection and not for surface protection.
Given the quality of the saw I find it strange that the company opted for such a poor surface coating.
The solutions?
1. Coating with a resin type material such as used in surf board manufacture.
2. Gluing a plastic wear resistant laminate.
3. Sanding and polishing the existing surface and applying a good hard wax polish that can be added to as the slippery surface deteriorates and not requiring the sanding and polishing every time.
4. Alternatively, an expensive choice may be to take the table to an electroplating company and have a chrome or similar finish applied and polished.

I am not the expert in the options but would tend to think that option 3 would be satisfactory and cheaper option.
Option 4 may simply be an overkill and or too expensive. Whether it would last a long time I am not sure but chrome plating is a hard material and should be long lasting. Cost would certainly be a factor to consider.
There may be other alternatives that would prove more satisfactory.

As far as the saw goes, once I ironed out some of the minor problems I quite like it and hope that I will be able to produce some excellent results once I gain experience with it. Being heavy it is very stable once the vibration problem I encountered was resolved, ( taking extra care when leveling the rubber feet).

Being able to tilt the head rather than the table is a quite logical step to me and it is a wonder it was not thought of a long time ago.
What do other members think?

I have even noticed at Woodshows that the table tops on the EX 21 & 30 are chipping on the edges. You are correct that they are powder coated and not durable.
Your idea of applying a laminate over the table sounds like a practical solution.
Hopefully the people at the mgf "General Tool" will recognize the issue and use polished steel .

R Knox
Canada