Thread: Pin and Pinless question

I had a whole bunch of hobby horses to cut out for the kids' school a few weeks ago. Quick and easy just to whack a nice fat pinned blade on and cut 'em all out.

Peter

A few years back I obtained a copy of olsen saw blades[pinless] selection chart. The smallest size that they recommended was 1/32"{ You work out the decimal equivilant] This was for their 2/0 blades.most blades seem to require either a 1/16 or 3/64 hole.
Vinnie.

And where would I buy a Jewellers saw? and blades of course.

John, these saws look like the old fashioned coping or fretwork saw, only they have a much larger frame. The measurement from the blade to the top of the frame is about 30cms (12 inches). They are available at most hardware stores.

Originally Posted by Buzza

John, these saws look like the old fashioned coping or fretwork saw, only they have a much larger frame. The measurement from the blade to the top of the frame is about 30cms (12 inches). They are available at most hardware stores.

Fret saws were pinned when I was last interested in them, and I suspect still are.

On the other hand, jewellers saw clamps the blade at each between a pair of plates, one part of the frame and the other free. Clamps are fastened with thumbscrews. Bladed range from about .8mm x .4 to about 1.5 x .6, very fine and rather brittle, but can cut very detailed shapes with great accuracy.

Originally Posted by munruben

General feeling here is that scroll saws that use pinless blades are the better machine for scroll work. How come the manufacturers of these machines don't just stick to making machines that take just pinless blades. Why do we need both types of blades, if pinless is so much better or is that too simple?

Hand-held fret saws were probably around long before scroll saws. So the first scroll saws would likely follow the example of pinned blades. Especially for internal work, the pinned blade allows faster blade changing, and more production. But why are pinned blades for fret saws and scroll saws a different length? Could be so they can sell more blades, but the extra length isn't needed so much in a scroll saw, since only a little more than half the blade is put to work anyway. Subject to correction by historians.

Joe

For my pinless blasdes we have bits from #73 to 55. On my site there bit sizes shown for different size blades. It would be similar for other blades too.Flying Dutchman blades are all pinless. In North America pinned blades are getting pretty hard to find, nor are they good quality. The bulk of saw here take pinless or some like Ryobi take both. Bang for the dollar, Dewalt is likely the better saw available. The Excalibur used to be a good saw when it was made in Canada, but is now made in China and the quality is not the same.

I've only seen one Dewalt over here and the guy in our club bought it second hand.

He does have one problem with it.... in the wintertime it doesn't like to start.... he turns it on..... then walks away and has a cuppa..... after a while all of a sudden it'll start and then be fine through the whole session. He says it must be female! lol

I'm still eyeing the Proxxon...... but just not getting too serious at the moment.... just want all the information ready in case the Delta plays up again...... want to avoid a knee jerk reaction.... then end up with an expensive saw I don't like using.

Juvy

Originally Posted by Mike in Nanaimo

...In North America pinned blades are getting pretty hard to find...

Blimey! So it seems. Grizzly's paper catalog (2008) has only a 6-pack assortment of pinned; all the rest plain. Didn't take long, did it?

Joe

Best place for pin and pinless blades here in Australia is Harris Traders.

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Juvy