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Thread: first portrait
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4th January 2009, 04:04 AM #1
first portrait
I got this pattern in a scrolling magazine I picked up. Last weekend, I picked up a variety of spiral bits so I could have a go at it. 2 days work later and here we are. The whole thing was done with two different spiral bits - no flat blades. I put a layer of clear packing tape on the entire back of the plywood to reduce tearout.
This was done with some cabinetry grade 1/4" birch plywood I picked up to use as box bottoms. Right now, it's sitting on a piece of cocobolo so you can see the contrast. When it gets framed it'll have a black backer. The overall dimensions of the image are 8"x10".
I know I basically jumped into the deep end of the pool with portrait work, but that's me: more balls than brains. My ego gets in my way often. I just know I can do the hard stuff without ramping up to it first. It seems to have worked this time, which is the exception rather than the rule.
Lessons learned:
Don't use cheap plywood from the home improvement stores. Their definition of "cabinetry grade" is suspect at best.
Start from one corner and work your way across the whole piece - no jumping around.
Spiral bits feel like cheating. I'll still use them for the majority of the work, but they still feel like cheating.
Don't hurry.
Especially with the really thin detail lines.
And maybe use a backer on those pieces in the future.
Any advice or suggestions on how to sand off the fuzzies on the back without going around EVERY cut individually?
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4th January 2009, 08:53 AM #2
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. lol.
Awsome work there avenger i am impressed.
I've never done any scroll work myself tho i have an old second hand 1 collecting dust that i plan to break out one day. What sort of bit are spiral bits? Any chance on a pic of the bits?
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4th January 2009, 09:34 AM #3Senior Member
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well done ,hmm i,d like to see a picture of those bits as well.
Well done ,
Regards Horse
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4th January 2009, 10:26 AM #4
http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm
They're a little more than half-way down the page. Basically, they're 36-42 TPI blades that are twisted so that you can cut 360 degrees. The drawback is that they don't get a crisp corner.
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4th January 2009, 10:27 AM #5New Member
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Hi Avengers63
Try using a butane torch to burn off the fuzzies. I find it works well but don't linger too long or you'll havesome expensive designer firewood.
Regards
Cronos
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4th January 2009, 02:41 PM #6
Thanks avenger, they are interesting looking blades. I can see how u won't get crisp corners from them. How do they differ in actual usage to normal straight blades?
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4th January 2009, 03:42 PM #7
Let's give a disclaimer first: I'm a rookie with a scroll saw. My experience totals a whopping 4 projects.
That being said, they feel to me like little rasps, carving away at the wood rather than cutting through it in a line. They're not that expensive either. A 12-pack was only about $6.00.
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4th January 2009, 03:58 PM #8
Any trouble opening Avenger's link? I cop the error msg:
Content Encoding Error
The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because it uses an invalid or unsupported form of compression.
The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because it uses an invalid or unsupported form of compression.
soth
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4th January 2009, 04:33 PM #9
Masoth the link worked fine for me.
GB i'm guessing that 'rasping' your way round the pattern might be easier than following a line with a tiny thin blade?
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8th January 2009, 10:23 PM #10
Spiral blades are basically like a normal blade thats been twisted to form the spiral. The main advantage of the spiral blade is that you dont have to spin the piece of timber when you are cutting, you just move the timber up/down or left/right as you go .. this is handy if scrolling on a large piece that is too long for the throat of the saw to spin it. Personally I hate the things and admire anyone who has the patience to use them
Brett
Only Robinson Crusoe could get everything done by Friday!
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10th January 2009, 01:18 PM #11
Probably 1 of my favourite blades. I have them in various sizes and use them mostly on larg portraits in 3/4/1" thick redgum as well as thiner timber. I find they remove sawdust out of the timber easier as well
PeteWhat this country needs are more unemployed politicians.
Edward Langley, Artist (1928-1995)
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12th January 2009, 01:40 PM #12
Just my two cents worth....
I like using reverse tooth blades ( the last 5-6 go backwards) to lessen fuzzies
Cut the most difficult parts first , if you bugger up you didn't waste all that time for nothing!
Once cut leave the pieces in and tape over them to keep the whole piece more stable until you're done cutting it all.
Spirals take getting used to ... takes me 10 min before I get my head around them... then another 10 to get back to normal and not push sidways! lol So I don't use them unless there is no other way... like on a big piece.
Also.... you can't get nice sharp points using spirals, I find it easier to cut precise with flat ones.
Another thing.... sometimes it's actually easier to stack cut a portrait ( if you can use two of the same) it seems to stabelize fine parts.
Best to avoid fuzzies then having to sand them off later.... but if you have to... safest method I found is to just fold sandpaper and very very carefull do it by hand.... time consuming but at least you have a better chance not to break things off
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
Wodonga - Supplies for Turners and Woodcrafters
Mobile 0407261703
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13th January 2009, 07:34 AM #13
That looks like Michael Pate to me! What's the origin of the portrait Av?
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