Thread: Questions about mystery scroll saw

WMS was in Plenty Rd, Preston, Melb but not sure if Stan is still there.
Perhaps Google might help you.

Yep, seems they are still in Prestons and still selling scroll saws, though ones which only take pinned blades now.
Wood Working Machinery

thanks
Arron

ps. Other questions still stand.

Originally Posted by Arron

And my last question is about replacing the blades. I find it odd that in what seems to be a nicely engineered machinery changing the blades is so poorly thought out - or am I doing it wrong. My main issue is that the blade-holding blocks are free to twist forward and backward as you change the blade. You can partially restrain them with your fingers, but only partially. Also, the actual block that does the holding (the free one), which is about 10mm square, is free to rotate. Am I doing it wrong -what is the correct way to change these blades ???? Below is a photo of the upper and lower blade holders.

scrollbladeupper.jpg scrollbladelower.jpg

Any advice appreciated (newbie to scrollsaws).
cheers
Arron

From the look of it, the idea is to loosen the tension knob then remove the blade complete with blocks/blade holders.
Next you undo the blade from the blade holders, fit another to the blade holders, position in place as a unit and re-tighten the tension knob. Pretty standard, although on most scrollsaws the tensioner is located toward the rear of the machine, on top.
It actually looks easier to change blades than my Scheppach DecoFlex.

Is it fixed or variable speed?

Originally Posted by Hermit

From the look of it, the idea is to loosen the tension knob then remove the blade complete with blocks/blade holders.
Next you undo the blade from the blade holders, fit another to the blade holders, position in place as a unit and re-tighten the tension knob. Pretty standard, although on most scrollsaws the tensioner is located toward the rear of the machine, on top.
It actually looks easier to change blades than my Scheppach DecoFlex.

Is it fixed or variable speed?

No, the blade holders are fixed in place - held in with a through pin.

I guess what I'm getting at is I'm wondering whether I might be missing a tool or something - perhaps something to hold the blocks/blade holders still and vertical while you loosen or tighten the allen key. That would seem a sensible thing to provide. The blocks/blade holders are clearly designed to pivot freely when the machine is running but they also pivot when you tighten/loosen them.

Variable speed. 500 to 1500 cycles per minute.

Originally Posted by Arron

No, the blade holders are fixed in place - held in with a through pin.

I guess what I'm getting at is I'm wondering whether I might be missing a tool or something - perhaps something to hold the blocks/blade holders still and vertical while you loosen or tighten the allen key. That would seem a sensible thing to provide. The blocks/blade holders are clearly designed to pivot freely when the machine is running but they also pivot when you tighten/loosen them.

Variable speed. 500 to 1500 cycles per minute.

So the through-pin doesn't simply unhook from the slots when tension is released, and you have to clamp the blade into the blade holder in place?

Edit: On closer inspection, I see what you mean - the Allen head screw stops the through-pin from being unhooked out of the slot.

Maybe you're supposed to put a small screwdriver through the unused hole in each, to stop the blade holder pivoting when being tightened?
If I were you I'd contact WMS and ask them.

Yep. The blade holder is pinned in place permanently, not with an allen screw but with one of those metal keys split up the middle.

I tried putting a small screwdriver through the hole, and yes, it does work to some degree, but only when tightening.

I may enquire of WMS, though I think this saw dates from the 90's and is quite different to what they sell now. I suspect I'll get my answers on this board when the old hands get round to reading it.

On the subject of the wierd looking hold-down. I tried removing the lower of the two forward projecting pieces. This allowed the top piece to contact the work and function as a holddown - so I'm thinking its probably intended to be an alternate hold down for when you want a less obtrusive one.

cheers
Arron

Originally Posted by Arron

I may enquire of WMS, though I think this saw dates from the 90's and is quite different to what they sell now. I suspect I'll get my answers on this board when the old hands get round to reading it.

cheers
Arron

I think you will find that WMS is still owned and run by the same person (Stan) from the 1990s so should be able to answer your query.

Originally Posted by Arron

On the subject of the wierd looking hold-down. I tried removing the lower of the two forward projecting pieces. This allowed the top piece to contact the work and function as a holddown - so I'm thinking its probably intended to be an alternate hold down for when you want a less obtrusive one.
cheers
Arron

You're probably right about that. The thought had crossed my mind. I find that when cutting really small pieces, the double foot on mine gets in the way. I removed it altogether, and just got in the habit of holding the workpiece down firmly myself.

And I agree with Chesand. I've dealt with him in the past and he's pretty decent. After all, what have you got to lose? You could be waiting forever for someone who's owned one of those exact machines to reply here.