Thread: RYOBI 125W Scroll Saw (405mm) (RSW1240G)

While I don't know this saw I am wodering if you currently have a pinned blade in place and the "gizmos" are adaptors for pinless blades.

Perhaps a couple of photos to assist others to comment.

regards

Bauldy

Hi, if it's like my Ryobi, the knob at the back of the unit is undone and then tightened to remove/replace the blade. The hardest part is to get the tension correct. The "gizmos" are to adapt pin-less blades, they are a pain to use, a lot of people use a hegner type "gizmo" as they have a knob on the side to make tightening easier. Helen Harris offers blades and the clamps at a good price.
Her contact is as follows; [email protected] She will be able to post a listing of blades etc to you.
Kryn

Thanks for the reply Kryn. First things first. I now know what the 'gizmos' are and what they're for, a knob to tighten would certainly be an advantage and I thank you for the link.

If you have a Ryobi you might also be able to help me with an aspect of the saw that I am finding totally frustrating.

I want to do some pierced work and I have drilled pilot holes in the work pieces. As I understand it what you then have to do is loosen off the tension at the back of the saw, remove the blade, put the blade through the pilot hole, hook it into the bottom fitting then into the top, re-tension and away you go. The problem that I have is connecting the blade to the bottom fitting which, when I have the wood to be pierced in place, I can't see: even with a torch. The only way that I have managed to connect the blade is to take out the plastic piece in the table that the blade goes through, with the blade through the wood tilt the wood forward and scrabble around the back of the wood to 'see' the bottom connector and get the blade in place. It sometimes takes me over 5 minutes to get the blade back in and ready to go. I can't see what I am doing wrong but, hopefully, it's something.

Cheers, Simon

Originally Posted by sikm

I want to do some pierced work and I have drilled pilot holes in the work pieces. As I understand it what you then have to do is loosen off the tension at the back of the saw, remove the blade, put the blade through the pilot hole, hook it into the bottom fitting then into the top, re-tension and away you go. The problem that I have is connecting the blade to the bottom fitting which, when I have the wood to be pierced in place, I can't see: even with a torch. The only way that I have managed to connect the blade is to take out the plastic piece in the table that the blade goes through, with the blade through the wood tilt the wood forward and scrabble around the back of the wood to 'see' the bottom connector and get the blade in place. It sometimes takes me over 5 minutes to get the blade back in and ready to go. I can't see what I am doing wrong but, hopefully, it's something.

Cheers, Simon

Leave the blade connected at the bottom, and feed it through the wood from the underside. Then all you have to do, is reconnect the blade to the top holder and tension.

Can't do that. when the tension is taken off the blade comes out of the bottom as well as the top. I've tried holding on to the blade to keep it in place but when you're maneuvering a fairly big piece of MDF (doll's house walls) the space between the raised foot and the top of the blade is insufficient to allow the blade to go through the pilot hole. More often than not, when trying that, even if I've managed to hang on to the blade it end's up coming out at the bottom.

Take the side cover off , opposite side to the motor .. Will give you a little more scope for access to the bottom rocker ..

Thanks, I'll give that a go tomorrow.

On my unit I removed the panel on the left hand side to allow me to see underneath. I removed the foot plate to make it easier also, because you still have to hold down the material to cut. You might be able to put some sort of catch plate under the bottom hook to help hold it in place. Are you using pinned or pinless blades. You might be able to get some thumb screws to fit the pin less adapters, do you know anyone with a metal lathe, they could turn up a couple of thumb screws about 25mm diam knurled on the outside and threaded to take a grub screw with a locking nut underneath. I think ??? there is a clip arrangement to hold the adapter in place on top and bottom.
I modified mine by putting an over centre arrangement to save fiddling around with tensions and to save time fitting blades.
Unfortunately the cheaper scroll saws are just your basic units, can't expect much for under $200 compared to a Hegner's $1200+.
You might find it easier to use a small router/Dremel to cut out the doors and windows for the doll house.
Regards
Kryn

I think all this proves that I have a lot to learn. I'll have a look tomorrow at removing the cover and have a look at the pin less clamps. See, I'm learning already, they're NOT gizmos!

Having looked at the model you have it is similar to mine except that the clamps are different.

This is the one I have

DSCF1895.jpg

A close up of my top clamp the bottom one is the same so that when you clamp the pinless blade it stays put. which is what you want. Don't know if you can get these where you are. They are not the best but they do work I just cut three Angels with this system see one of my posts https://www.woodworkforums.com/f19/two-more-173553/

DSCF1894.jpg

Here is a picture off of the machine.


DSCF1893.jpgDSCF1892.jpg

This is where I got mine Buy Blade Clamp for AWVFS Fretsaw from Axminster, fast delivery for the UK Have a look at your own local suppliers of woodworking machines they may have some.

Hope some of the information helps

Originally Posted by froger

Take the side cover off , opposite side to the motor .. Will give you a little more scope for access to the bottom rocker ..

Thanks. I've done that it it's a big help.

[QUOTE=Diggerdelaney;1672161]Having looked at the model you have it is similar to mine except that the clamps are different.

Can't see those clamps fitting my saw but there are probably some out there that will do the job I'll check and see. Thanks for taking the trouble.

[QUOTE=sikm;1672290]

Originally Posted by Diggerdelaney

Having looked at the model you have it is similar to mine except that the clamps are different.

Can't see those clamps fitting my saw but there are probably some out there that will do the job I'll check and see. Thanks for taking the trouble.

I'll have a look and see what I can make up for you to hold the blades and clamps in place.
Do you use the pinless clamps or pinned blades??
Kryn

[QUOTE=KBs PensNmore;1672446]

Originally Posted by sikm

I'll have a look and see what I can make up for you to hold the blades and clamps in place.
Do you use the pinless clamps or pinned blades??
Kryn

I'm just starting out and am currently using pinned blades. Obviously, if only for the wider range available and the greater spread of sizes I'd like to use pinless. I've got some work to do though to see how easy it is to pass the blades through a piece of work and then re-fasten them into the clamps. Perhaps if I could replace the allen bolts with thumbscrews? I'll post a photo later today. Simon

This is the scroll saw I've bought:RYOBI Australia: 125W Scroll Saw (405mm) (RSW1240G)

The attached, out of focus, photos show the gizmos (adapters/clamps). The drawings in the manual are a better representation though.