Thread: SCHEPPACH ScrollSaw Deco Flex 16 inch

I bought a Scheppach DecoFlex from Hare and Forbes a couple of weeks ago. Works well and is very easy to change and tension blades. It takes the pinned blades, but also comes with a pair of small clamp adaptors for pinless blades.
I'm pretty happy with it.

Having said this, if the problems can be sorted out, the Jet should be a far better machine. Might be worth persevering a bit longer with Carbatec and the Jet.

Edit: I just checked out the DecoFlex at machines4u. It's actually the Hare and Forbes one, but if you buy direct from Hare and Forbes before this Sunday, (18.11.2012), it's only $149 instead of $176. Here: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W348

thanks humphrey9999

We took the 'jet' back to carbatec and the guys there were shocked! even they said it had definitely been used before we had purchased it - you couldn't push the arm down to the change the blade or nothing - it was all marked etc .. they gladly gave us our money back .. from there we went to Hare and Forbes at Coopers Plains (brisbane) and looked at the scheppach - wow what a difference! the blades are so easy to change and love that it comes with a light and damn i can't think of the name of it but a flexable arm so that you can drill and sand without having extra machines around ....

we purchased some round plain end blades and zoomed around the 12mm MDF - we're still learning - we're going back to today to buy some finer pin end blades to see if that makes it easier to cut out words/letters etc ...

Originally Posted by pkgjmg

we purchased some round plain end blades and zoomed around the 12mm MDF - we're still learning - we're going back to today to buy some finer pin end blades to see if that makes it easier to cut out words/letters etc ...

It takes a little getting used to, but once you get the feel of it it's surprising how tightly the saw will turn corners. It's worth taking the time to watch a vid or two on YouTube to improve your technique on tight corners. There's a knack to it. You can allow the blade to twist a lot. Also, ensure that the blade is tensioned nice and tight to make cornering easier.

I bought some 9TPI blades for thicker material, 15TPI for general use and 18TPI for thinner material/tighter cuts, all pinned blades for easy blade changes. I still need to get some pinless blades for those smaller inside cuts. I thought about buying some spiral blades, but apparently they're harder to control in a straight line, so I stuck with the flat ones.

After a couple of days practice with the scroll saw, it's even improved my bandsaw curves as well using the same technique as with the scroll saw.

we picked up some 10tpi from hare and forbes this morning 10pk for just over $11 - cheap as chips! .. lol .. haven't tried today cause it's too damn hot to be outside! .. the blade looks really thick tho? with the jet that we took back - we got 18 spare blades for free in a pack - and some of the blades in there were so fine if you dropped them you couldn't see them! lol ...

Originally Posted by pkgjmg

we picked up some 10tpi from hare and forbes this morning 10pk for just over $11 - cheap as chips! .. lol .. haven't tried today cause it's too damn hot to be outside! .. the blade looks really thick tho? with the jet that we took back - we got 18 spare blades for free in a pack - and some of the blades in there were so fine if you dropped them you couldn't see them! lol ...

Yeah, the spare that came with the DecoFlex was really narrow, an 18TPI. Generally, the higher the TPI the narrower the blade is. I bought some more 18TPI, but they're not quite as narrow as the supplied one.
Still, once you get the feel of the saw, you'll find that you can even do some pretty tight corners with a standard width 15TPI.

The best of the lot are PGT, (Precision Ground Teeth), blades. More expensive, but cleaner cutting and they cut straight, unlike the pressed blades that tend to cut to the side.

thanks! ... we went and purchased some 10tpi pinned blades (that's all the store had left) and we're still practising - not doing too bad if i don't say myself! .... just gotta get used of going around right corners - but i'm slowly getting there - first off i was going really really slow - and now as i get to a corner i just spin the MDF and i seem to be doing ok ..

how do you attach your patterns to the MDF? .. i used clear packing tape yesterday (watched steve good on youtube that's what he did) but as I got further and further into the cutting the pattern was jumping all over the place (which is understandable) .. i noticed he used a spray on adhesive also - but only sprayed the pattern not the MDF - and when he was finished it pulled off with ease ..

another question is - the dust! oh my lord the dust! ... we tried wearing masks yesterday but i couldn't stand it - and so many video's we've watched have said you must wear a mask cause MDF is poisonous .. do we need a dust extractor? or what else can we use ......

Originally Posted by pkgjmg

how do you attach your patterns to the MDF? .. i used clear packing tape yesterday (watched steve good on youtube that's what he did) but as I got further and further into the cutting the pattern was jumping all over the place (which is understandable) .. i noticed he used a spray on adhesive also - but only sprayed the pattern not the MDF - and when he was finished it pulled off with ease ..

I use spray adhesive mostly, but also have some Avery A4 removable labels. They work just like the spray adhesive, but without the overspray mess. Works out at a little over $1 per sheet. They're available here: LABEL AVERY LASER L7167REV 1L-25SH REMOVABLE

As you say, the spray adhesive works fine, provided only one side is sprayed. Spraying both surfaces makes the bond permanent.

another question is - the dust! oh my lord the dust! ... we tried wearing masks yesterday but i couldn't stand it - and so many video's we've watched have said you must wear a mask cause MDF is poisonous .. do we need a dust extractor? or what else can we use ......

I usually connect my dust extractor, but a normal household vacuum cleaner should be fine. You're right - MDF dust is not good for your health. A mask AND the vacuum are a good idea, (even though wearing a mask is a PITA). I usually work with hardwoods and avoid MDF like the plague.

Edit: I meant to mention - I've been buying my blades from eBay, here: BILLS BARGAINS ONLINE items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!
He has a decent range, good prices and fast delivery. ($7.50 for a pack of 6, with free delivery.)

Originally Posted by Humphrey9999

Edit: I meant to mention - I've been buying my blades from eBay, here: BILLS BARGAINS ONLINE items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!
He has a decent range, good prices and fast delivery. ($7.50 for a pack of 6, with free delivery.)

OUCH!!
Helen Harris sells best quality blades for approx $4.50 per dozen!

See this thread post #7

Originally Posted by jchappo

OUCH!!
Helen Harris sells best quality blades for approx $4.50 per dozen!

See this thread post #7

I stand corrected. I thought $7.50 for 6 was cheap.

I know I am late in finding this thread but I want to thank all who contributed to it. I think it a great thread, very informative.
I hope the first poster is happy with the saw now as I have one, too, and am very satisfied.
Many thanks again.

Originally Posted by Old farmer

I know I am late in finding this thread but I want to thank all who contributed to it. I think it a great thread, very informative.
I hope the first poster is happy with the saw now as I have one, too, and am very satisfied.
Many thanks again.

G'day Old farmer. Mine does everything it's supposed to, but after 7 months of light use the tensioner died of a stripped thread internally. Hopefully mine was an odd one out in this regard.

H&F were fantastic about it and replaced it with a new one - definitely no complaints in that respect.

I also have a Jet 16". In use, they're very similar and of a similar quality, but it has a quick release tensioner that appealed to me. (The adjustment can be done with the tension released which puts less strain on the thread.)

Good luck with your's and don't be concerned, I haven't heard of another one failing from a similar problem, but just thought I should mention it.

Thank you, Hermit, for your response. I shall remember what you said about the tensioner, hope I escape similar trouble.
I am glad H&F helped you in good spirit. We began buying from them in the 1970s whilst on the farm.
Bill.