Scroll saw table maintenance

**aregee** · 25th January 2012, 05:56 PM

Hi all need a bit of advice
What is the best way to remove hardwood sap stains and surface marks caused by the acid in your skin which causes surface rust on the table?
I have tried wet&dry paper and a coating of CRC/WD40 when I finish for the day but the stuff gets everywhere and is a pain in the A to clean off before starting a new project.
Any sugestions would be most welcome.

On a brighter note I purchased a new quick release clamp from Carroll's woodcraft for my 18" Carbatec. WHY I didn't listen to advice and buy one when I bought the saw I don't know, they make life so much easier

Tip that some might find useful
While working on a project before Xmas I broke my last No 3 blade and I wanted to finish the job as it was a gift. I remembered that in the dim dark ages as an apprentice saw doctor it was may job to sharpen handsaws (nobody does that now) and after filing the teeth we had to side dress them with an oil stone to bring up the points. I had a couple of blunt blades so why not give it a go Tensioned the blade and then turned on the machine then held the fine oil stone against the blade.
I had to reduce feed and speed but it got the job done.
Cheers Richard

**Trustinggibbsie** · 27th January 2012, 07:07 PM

I have a Trupro, which as far as I know is exactly the same as your CT 18". But I don't know why you are having problems with the table. When I first got mine I polished it up with wet and dry and then polished it with Armourall. Occasionally I re polish it with the Armourall and that is all I do. The table is always shiny and as smooth as glass. I have never had a problem with rust or any other stains. Hmm, don't know. Perhaps someone else has an idea to what is wrong?

Noel

**aregee** · 28th January 2012, 08:22 PM

Noal thanks for the the advice, I will give it another polish with wet and dry then try coating it with Armourall to see if that makes a difference
It may just be all the wet weather we are having up here that is causing the problem
Thanks again
Richard

**Trustinggibbsie** · 29th January 2012, 07:13 AM

I don't know if it is the technically correct thing to do, but it works very well for me. I also sand the underside of the workpiece smooth after drilling the pilot holes.

Noel

**fanarkle** · 2nd February 2012, 10:33 AM

Hi,
I don't have any rust problems with my EX21...but I do give it a quick spray and wipe with Mr Sheen occasionally to increase the "slip"..this also makes the dust easier to blow away...

Cheers...Dave.

**aregee** · 10th February 2012, 06:26 PM

Thanks for the Mr Sheen tip Dave
I gave it another go with wet and dry then hit it with Kitten No2 car polish and that seems to have done the trick
Cheers Richard

**greyhound** · 19th February 2012, 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by aregee

Noal thanks for the the advice, I will give it another polish with wet and dry then try coating it with Armourall to see if that makes a difference
It may just be all the wet weather we are having up here that is causing the problem
Thanks again
Richard

Tried the armourall on my Hegner cast iron table very happy

with the result a lot less friction and did not seem to stain the timber

**Buzza** · 25th February 2012, 11:38 AM

For rust, especially if you have a bad spot or more, try molasses. Cover the spot with a blob of the stuff and after a day or so, wipe it off to see what the result is. Repeat if it isn't quite to your liking. I clean my table with a fine emery paper, wip it it with a cloth, and then lightly coat it in a vegetable oil. Stays good for a long while.

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