Thread: Before I take the scrollsaw out again...

How thick is the veneer? If thin (1mm+/-), I think you'd get better results with a utility knife; much sharper edges and straighter cuts. For tight curves, I'd suggest a hobby knife, e.g, X-acto.

If thicker, and with sharp narrow points (inlay or marquetry?), the plywood backing might prevent losing tiny bits below the table, or at least make them easier to find.

Joe

If you must use a backing then I recomend you use craftwood as this doesn't make the blade wander as much as ply - softer too.

Gidday Joe and TJ
Mate the thickness will need to be guessed at since its US measurements and most are different... Im finding cutting curves with the blade is a pain in the ???? with the knife especially the Hickory seems every time I go to cut the round it just splits! and drives me knuts

I really need to make some smaller peices for a wall "painting" Ive started... 4ft dia circular picture of a catamarran in the Kimberlies from a photo for the in laws new house (their cat) and I intend to do some serious detail in this one so need to be able to cut close and with curves.

I'll see if I can find some of the craft wood TJ could be a good route to go

Cheers fellas
Shane

Shane

ISTR that Craftwood was an early trade name for mdf. See if you can find someone who buys something that is shipped with thin mdf sheets to protect it (often used for delicate finishes) and they will usuallly let you liberate as much as you need....

The shaky, rock and rolling scrollsaw probably has damaged or missing feet.
Cut a rectanglular piece of heavy foam rubber
(i.e. similar too wetsuit rubber) the size of the size of the scrollsaw and rest it in that.
Should dampen the noise and vibration so you can go back to country and western.
Clark Rubber has foam mats that lock together that would be perfect for the job.
I have these mats in front of my lathe, bandsaw, etc, to cushion my own feet. You would be amazed at the relief from aching feet.

did some veneer cutting on scrollsaws at the last meeting I attended, we just put the pieces between bits of cardboard (old cereal boxes) and cut it that way with a small blade. We had one piece of card, peice of veneer, another piece of card, piece of veneer, and final piece of card and tape around the edges .. this was then cut on an angle so that the top piece of veneer fit into the button piece to be used on a box or whatever

anyone want the notes on that let me know

I've done the same as Oges - used cardboard from old cereal boxes, I mean. I've also tried thin MDF (which I think works better) but I'm tight and cardboard is cheaper.

I also found that changing to spiral-cut blades made a big difference for me - because they cut in all directions there's no "turning corners" as such and they'll cut wherever I push the wood. (Which isn't always on the line, but that's my fault, not the blade. )

Mind you, from what I can gather, other people hate 'em. But they work for me and might do the trick for you, too..