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Thread: What size scrollsaw?
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9th May 2009, 08:52 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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What size scrollsaw?
Hi all i dont have a scrollsaw, havent even used one! But i am keen to get one and add some scroll work to my projects.
I am pretty sure i'll be getting the Excalibur but i have noticed on the latest carbatec catalogue there are two sizes. I am not sure which one to get?
My first project is entail cutting on a peice about 500x300mm, for that size work would i be ok with the 21" or should i just get the 30" version?
PS are there any clubs in the northern suburbs of Melbourne (Preston)?
thanks
Joez
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9th May 2009 08:52 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th May 2009, 03:05 PM #2Senior Member
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I have an 18 inch saw and have neaver had any need to want anything larger. Unless you intend to do very large work I thing the small one is all you need.
Just something to think about. A job that is so big that you need a big capacity saw is going to take a lot of manovering aroung the saws work table.
Red Gum
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10th May 2009, 09:48 PM #3
You don't really need an oversized saw for big pieces..... if you have to cut a really big piece switch to a spiral blade.... you can then go sideways and even cut pulling the piece towards yourself! Takes a bit getting used to , but with practise you can do anything. A lot of scrollers swear by them and won't use anything else on portraits.
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
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12th May 2009, 10:38 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the feedback, looks like the smaller unit will do fine..
Joez
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15th May 2009, 10:57 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Picked up the scroll saw from Carbatec today, just had a quick play, its sure harder than it looks. I couldnt stick to the line to save my life!
I think i'll need plenty of practice before touching some prized wood lol.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Joez
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16th May 2009, 06:21 PM #6
lol Can't do "quick"..... First time I used one ...... oh sheeeeeesh.... first thing I did was look for a piece of wood to cut... only thing laying around was a big sheet of MDF.... larger then the throat of the saw.... much larger.... so here I stood pushing the thing in while standing up.. after a couple inches the blade broke.... put new blade in.... broke it again... took three blades! lol
To keep yourself from getting frustrated slow the speed down, make sure the blade is well tensioned... draw yourself some straight and some curved lines on a practise board and practise.... when you get bored with that ( I did pretty quick) grab a kid . have him/her draw some animal shapes and make puzzles out of every piece of wood you have laying around.... after you make 50+ I'll guarantee you'll stay on the line and have good control to try anything
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
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24th May 2009, 06:14 PM #7Senior Member
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well glad to see. im not the only one to go off lines & break blades , Im told the thinner blades are easier to work with. I got my blades from bunnings that was my mistake i think.
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24th May 2009, 07:49 PM #8Senior Member
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Yep! Thats a mistake alright. I would sugest good quality blades from Harrises.
My opinion for blades is
No 3 reverse tooth
No 5 reverse tooth
No 7 reverse tooth
No 9 reverse tooth
You will need to make this up to 6 packets to get their bulk discount so a packet of each with 2 packets of No 5 & 7 should do the job. Postage will be about 50 cents
I think these would be a good place to start.
Others might have a veriation on this
Red Gum
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24th May 2009, 11:08 PM #9
hmmmmmm..... think that is solid proof that you don't break many blades, Red Gum.... postage went up since last time you bought blades! lol
Also... not sure, but I think there is no discount for the gross anymore. It's always 4.50.... I think.... which is a terrific price!
You know I'll have to give my 2 cents worth about blades.....
not sure who told you, horse, that thinner blades are easier to work with? All the people I've taught so far wouldn't agree with that one.... thicker blades don't wander as easy as thin ones and take a bit of abuse when it comes to pushing too hard.
Also.... I find that the thinner the material the harder it is to handle.... so stack cutting is a good way to make life easier and at the same time get an extra present to give to someone
My fav blades are the modified geometry ones... I have several packs of each number... run out of #1 and #5 the most.
But.. of course there's a but.... lol...... I would recommend you also have some regular blades.... without reverse teeth, simply because sometimes the reverse teeth have a bit of a kick and make it harder to stay on the line depending on what timber you use.
Also.... for cutting thick wood have some skip or double skip tooth ones.
It all comes down to what timber you use tho.. and preference once you're used to your saw. Like Red Gum said.... Harris Traders is a great place to start... I'm sure Helen would put together a starter pack for you if you'd ask her.
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
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25th May 2009, 12:13 PM #10Senior Member
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One point I failed to mention.
It is a good idea to let sandpaper or an emry board or any other sharpening tool to rub on each side of the back of the blade when the saw is running. This takes off the manufacturing burr and helps you to cut a straight line
Red Gum
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26th May 2009, 06:18 PM #11
True, but I found that a nuisance....
Once you're used to the burr you automatically compensate for it anyway.
Only time I'd consider going the extra step is for very very fine work with lots of sharp turns.
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
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30th May 2009, 05:51 PM #12Senior Member
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Ok thats for that will order some blades & see how many i can break. im cutting 19mm pine & 3-6mm MDF, so wich blades would i want.
Cheers Horse
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30th May 2009, 07:30 PM #13
Blades
I personelly agree 100% with what JUVY says as i too use modified geometery blades in every size available
I obtain all my blades from Helen at Harris traders it only takes a phone call or E-Mail and within 2 Days i have them and payment is a simple transfer of funds
I notice that one of the comments sugests a method of taking the BURE of the back of the blade to assist the turning into and out of sharp corners which may be the case however i have never practiced this and have never had a problem
Over to you JUVY for further comment on this subject
REG
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30th May 2009, 08:02 PM #14
over and out....... lol
think we're talking this subject to death?
Horse.... again..... unless what you're cutting in the 19mm pine is very intricate I'd use #5 or even #7 blade..... for the 3mm ply.... if possible I'd try to stack cut - it's easier to control a cut in a bit thicker wood, specially for a beginner.... so 6mm... for intricate I'd use a #1, for simple I'd use a 3 or even 5. It's very hard to tell someone else what blades to use as it depends so much on personal preference.
One thing tho.. if you cut ply or MDF... the glue in there dulls blades much quicker then cutting regular wood, so be ready to change blades more often.
and again...... please do wear a mask!!!!!!
JuvyWoodcrafters Haven
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31st May 2009, 05:55 PM #15Senior Member
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Thankyou all for your patients & time, im a bit thick when it comes to understanding some of the stuff, i need to see stuff to get a better understanding of things
Cheers Horse
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