Vernonv not as big as your monster !

But when I was a we lad and I got my feet wet by building my deck I should have thought a bit more about later when it comes time to make it into rooms. What I did was had my joists running 90 deg to the rest of the house so when comes the time to extend the floorboards I have nothing to nail to DOH!.

Now I want to do this I have a couple of issues, I am ready to take down the old TP joists 240x45 and run new bearers on the outside walls and one in the centre and use Hjoist 240x90 so I can span the 5m underneath to have an open plan downstairs.

My current joists and deck boards are at the same height as the floor hence cant put sheets down, still finallising the design as I think I only need to pull half the deck area down as internal stairs still to go in. (deck area 9.1m x 4m).

I have a couple of things to consider:
1. Would you lower the current deck and use yellow tounge (YT) and then lay the boards or nail direct into the joists?
2. use blocking on the current joist and nail the boards to this instead of pulling it down?
3. should the wall framing sit directly on the joists not YT.
4. I am retro fitting the other joists using HJ and removing the 2 HW bearers to improve the span and converting downstairs into proper rooms.
5. The ant capping is shot on the single leaf brickwork between upper story and lower storey, so what do I do here? there is no framework currently underneath and the brickwork has no DPC, I can make a cavity for the frame/bricks with some termimesh in the infillslab is this enough?
The bottom storey will be bricks and upper weatherboards to match the rest of the house.

Back to the other thread I am sure the TP is F7 however if it were F5 then the current joist span is no good, it is a little springy where it spans 3.9m (Alans book states 4.3m for the F7) but I think thats due to where it sits on brickwork, until I knock out the bricks and put up framing as that are not needed now due to the truss taking the roof load.

I am considering limiting the noise underneath by using yellow tongue I know I can use some diff gyprock but havent got that far yet to sound proof.

I have been using the I3 (hyjoist) computer design and the timber solutions to come to the new timbers needed. Given the deck area has no roof load and is >1m above the ground. The upper level joists will only take wall load perpendicular. Not sure what wall bracing is going to be needed yet.


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