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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2019

    Default Adhesive for raw wood veneer

    I need to veneer some 0.6mm thick raw wood veneer (Brush box wood Brush Box (Quarter-cut)) onto some MDF and I have some doubts about what method I should use to do this.

    I few youtube videos and other research have shown people using contact cement, ironing + yellow wood glue/white PVA glue, and powdered hide glue.

    According to this site -> 8 Important Veneering Tips: How to Get a Perfect Panel Everytime (under paragraph 2. Choosing the right glue), contact cement should not be used with raw wood. Regarding yellow glue (and likely white glue as well):

    "Despite the recommendations of many woodworkers, I have never found yellow glue to be suitable for veneering. This type of glue never fully hardens, and thus allows the veneer to "creep" or move during seasonal changes in humidity. And because of its thin consistency, yellow glue also has a tendency to bleed through and discolor the veneer. Lastly, since yellow glue dries with a soft glue line, it is also very difficult to sand."

    Hide glue is recommended by this site and other sources, but the smallest amount I can buy from a brick and mortar store (Jacksons) is 500g for $50. I went there today because their website said they had 100g for $15, but they discontinued it. I did some reading and liquid hide glue ( is not as effective as the powdered stuff.

    Titebond makes cold press veneer glue (, but it's $50 for 1 gallon and they don't sell smaller sizes.

    Does anyone have any recommendations for what I should do?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014


    Hi noheartbreakers,

    For flat surfaces I generally use Titebond 2 or 3 and have never had the veneer creep. White PVA has worked OK for me too. I use a hard roller (brayer) to spread the glue evenly, spreading on the substrate only. In my view, TB3 sands better than TB2.

    Titebond make a cold press veneer glue but I believe it is only available locally in large containers. It is thicker than normal TB so it is less likely to bleed through.

    Alternatively you could try two part epoxy (e.g. West System) to which you can add fillers to thicken the mix and reduce the likelihood of bleed-through.

    If veneering curved pieces I use Cascamite (urea formaldehyde) as this dries absolutely rigid and will not allow the laminated curves to straighten out.

    I haven’t used hide glue for years. Everyone to their own, but for me it is too smelly, messy and inconvenient. Good if you want to be able to disassemble the joint years later (violins, chairs) but there are many more convenient glues for wood veneering.

    Good luck!


  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Central Coast, NSW


    Just to clarify

    Titebond Cold press veneer glue is actually pva, with tint and thickeners added. The thickeners stop it bleeding through and the tint stop it mattering if it does.

    You can confirm it on this site - click on the image of a spec sheet half way down the page:
    Franklin 5176, 1 Gallon Cold Press Glue, Veneer Specific, Tan Color, Dries Dark Brown

    Likewise, the Better Bond Express veneer glue (which the site you quote recommends as first choice) is also pva with tints and thickeners, I believe, although I canít find a spec sheet to prove it.

    The MSDS reads like PVA, though they try very hard to stop you finding out. Cold Press Veneer Glue | Light Medium Dark

    FWIW, I used to do occasional veneering and my solution was to take it to Specialty Wood Panels in Sydney, and they would supply the veneer and do a pro job of pressing for less then the cost of me buying the veneer alone. Maybe there is somewhere similar in Perth.

    I know this is a diy site but ....
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

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