Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    575

    Default

    Any chance you could solder a nail /screw to the back of the brass?
    You definitely need make sure both surfaces are dead flat, and degrease the brass.



    Russ

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    carlton
    Posts
    38

    Default

    i get where your going but in this case it wouldnt suit the project, thanks for the thought

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    42

    Default

    About the only way to get that brass disc to stay on the end grain permanently, would be to silver solder a spike onto the middle of the back of the disc.

    Then drill a hole into the end of the dowel and then add Araldite/2 part epoxy into the hole, now push the spike into the hole and the disc will forever stay in place.

    No matter what you do to the flat back on the Brass disc, it will NEVER stay in place on the end grain with any glue, a simple knock will remove it and you have to start over again.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I've used Purebond (Polyurethane) from Boatcraft Pacific to glue alloy and stainless on various applications for boat building - including below waterline. So far so good (several years). In fact the bond onto stainless screws into ply is remarkable. Even applying heat will not loosen them - which is another problem of course! So I am reasonably confident it will be fine with good abrading of the brass - good mating of the surfaces, and fairly high clamping pressure. The latter I find important in any use of poly glues. I will try some and let you know how it goes. thanks - Mick

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,354

    Default

    Personally, if the brass is being pressed on then I'd definitely go for epoxy. I wouldn't be too concerned about pins/screws, etc. so long as the press fit seems sufficiently strong by itself for normal expected use of the item.

    All any glue would do in such a situation would be prevent the brass from 'creeping off' the timber, not really supply any structural strength per se. I'd still rough the brass surface with an awl or 20 grit paper, for the sake of thoroughness.

    If the press fit is sloppy though, that's another thing altogether.

    Quote Originally Posted by switt775 View Post
    Brass and timber is the typical pen maker's combination. So a bit of research in the pen makers area will tell you that most use either CA or epoxy, with equally good results.
    When it comes to pens, the most robust use epoxy for any joints which may have voids or flex, CA as a form of loctite and as a finish.

    That's not to say that every pen turner agrees with the above.

    Edit: if there was any likelihood of external movement being applied to the joint, eg. brass feet on the end of chair legs, then I'd go for a more flexible sealant. Probably one of the Sikaflex family.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Upper Hutt, New Zealand
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Can I piggyback on this thread?
    I'm just about to fix a cast plaque onto a wood plinth. The plinth roughly 200 W x 100 D and is chamfered 30 degs at one end to give a surface about 200 x 120 to take the plaque (other end sunk into ground and concreted in) so the plaque will be fixing to end-grain. I intend using 2K epoxy.
    Question is, should I seal the end grain before attaching the plaque? If so, what's best method? I have thought about using thinned poly as a sealer but will this affect the epoxy seal?
    Pete

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    575

    Default

    The original thread here is pretty old...

    But as per previous comments here, mechanical fixing would be best. Otherwise, in my opinion only cos I've never done it, epoxy, with some holes drilled into the end grain to give a key. Even angled holes, intersecting.
    The epoxy itself will seal the wood.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    Brass to wood - Modern methods Loctite AA330
    - Old Methods - Fish Glue.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Slotted head Brass countersunk wood screws - Where can I get these please
    By Interwood in forum Links to: TIMBER & HARDWARE SUPPPLIERS
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 7th November 2011, 09:00 PM
  2. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 24th August 2009, 11:57 PM
  3. Brass Wood Screws - Don't think so!
    By Strungout in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 25th December 2008, 06:56 AM
  4. Replies: 13
    Last Post: 3rd October 2008, 11:12 AM
  5. Brass Tube - Glue or Press
    By dazzler in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 8th June 2006, 12:22 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •