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Thread: Brass to wood glue?
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10th August 2019, 07:49 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Any chance you could solder a nail /screw to the back of the brass?
You definitely need make sure both surfaces are dead flat, and degrease the brass.
Russ
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10th August 2019 07:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th August 2019, 08:16 PM #17Intermediate Member
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i get where your going but in this case it wouldnt suit the project, thanks for the thought
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13th August 2019, 11:27 AM #18Intermediate Member
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About the only way to get that brass disc to stay on the end grain permanently, would be to silver solder a spike onto the middle of the back of the disc.
Then drill a hole into the end of the dowel and then add Araldite/2 part epoxy into the hole, now push the spike into the hole and the disc will forever stay in place.
No matter what you do to the flat back on the Brass disc, it will NEVER stay in place on the end grain with any glue, a simple knock will remove it and you have to start over again.
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7th September 2020, 08:16 AM #19New Member
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I've used Purebond (Polyurethane) from Boatcraft Pacific to glue alloy and stainless on various applications for boat building - including below waterline. So far so good (several years). In fact the bond onto stainless screws into ply is remarkable. Even applying heat will not loosen them - which is another problem of course! So I am reasonably confident it will be fine with good abrading of the brass - good mating of the surfaces, and fairly high clamping pressure. The latter I find important in any use of poly glues. I will try some and let you know how it goes. thanks - Mick
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7th September 2020, 01:43 PM #20
Personally, if the brass is being pressed on then I'd definitely go for epoxy. I wouldn't be too concerned about pins/screws, etc. so long as the press fit seems sufficiently strong by itself for normal expected use of the item.
All any glue would do in such a situation would be prevent the brass from 'creeping off' the timber, not really supply any structural strength per se. I'd still rough the brass surface with an awl or 20 grit paper, for the sake of thoroughness.
If the press fit is sloppy though, that's another thing altogether.
When it comes to pens, the most robust use epoxy for any joints which may have voids or flex, CA as a form of loctite and as a finish.
That's not to say that every pen turner agrees with the above.
Edit: if there was any likelihood of external movement being applied to the joint, eg. brass feet on the end of chair legs, then I'd go for a more flexible sealant. Probably one of the Sikaflex family.
- Andy Mc
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8th September 2020, 04:25 AM #21
Can I piggyback on this thread?
I'm just about to fix a cast plaque onto a wood plinth. The plinth roughly 200 W x 100 D and is chamfered 30 degs at one end to give a surface about 200 x 120 to take the plaque (other end sunk into ground and concreted in) so the plaque will be fixing to end-grain. I intend using 2K epoxy.
Question is, should I seal the end grain before attaching the plaque? If so, what's best method? I have thought about using thinned poly as a sealer but will this affect the epoxy seal?
Pete
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17th September 2020, 11:22 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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The original thread here is pretty old...
But as per previous comments here, mechanical fixing would be best. Otherwise, in my opinion only cos I've never done it, epoxy, with some holes drilled into the end grain to give a key. Even angled holes, intersecting.
The epoxy itself will seal the wood.
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9th December 2020, 10:48 PM #23
Brass to wood - Modern methods Loctite AA330
- Old Methods - Fish Glue.
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