Thread: Glue Drying Time?

I usually clamp overnight. Some prefer to clamp it for a couple of days, but I don't really see the point of clamping more than 1 day.
Good luck with your first build.
Cheers
Archer

ok i'll leave it overnight, thanks archer

I leave overnight, simply just to be safe (they say it's better to be safe than sorry, after all)

I'll usually go overnight like RG and Archer, although I have gone 3 hours with heat applied to get things going . ( mainly headplate veneering and the less structural components. Great results too, just pick your moments. )
I had a Qld walnut neck thru laminated section in the clamps for a couple of weeks while the weather was a bit topsy-turvy.

Safety says overnight for most things.

cheers, Stu

Hi,

I'm with everyone on the overnight clamping.

I've found generally drying time varies from timber to timber. Generally I think the higher the oil content, the longer the drying time.

For soft cabinet making timbers, 30mins might be alright, but for hard oily woods used in guitar making you need much longer than the recommended time on the label.

cheers

ok thanks for all ur responses, i'll be getting the wood this week and building will get underway

Hey, this is a "V", right?

You know to leave "steps" for the three clamps? (In other words, don't rough cut the two sides before glueing.) This is so the clamp faces can oppose each other without wanting to slip. If it's too late, tack-glue on some wedges to make the steps, and saw them off again after.

Also with a V, the grain runs along parallel to the outside edges - not parallel to the centreline like most guitars. Do it that way and the corners will be terribly chip-prone.

Regards, Adam.

Originally Posted by addo

Hey, this is a "V", right?

You know to leave "steps" for the three clamps? (In other words, don't rough cut the two sides before glueing.) This is so the clamp faces can oppose each other without wanting to slip. If it's too late, tack-glue on some wedges to make the steps, and saw them off again after.

Also with a V, the grain runs along parallel to the outside edges - not parallel to the centreline like most guitars. Do it that way and the corners will be terribly chip-prone.

Regards, Adam.

yeah its a v, i was planning to glue the two pieces together first then cut it out, but now u mention the grain thing, should i cut the 2 halves out with the grain parallel to the edges then glue together as u suggested?

i gota see what the wood grain is like first, getting the wood possible this friday.

thanks adam

Glad it's not too late! Let me know if you need a sketch of what I'm carrying on about.

http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc00130wi2.jpg
something like that?

Something like what?

Thanks, i though maybe it was a browser error.

This is what i assumed i had to do when i designed it when looking at other Vee's, which is what i understand from your drawing.

Those strange black lines being direction of grain.

just edited post

I think if you are making a more 'rounded' Gibson style V, then it's not quite as necessary to run the grain paralell to the outer edge, as Gibson themselves have made them with grain paralell to centerline (eg http://www.guitargonauts.com/pix/82flyingv.jpg).

However, a Jackons or ESP style pointed V, I would definately think it's in your best interest to run the grain in.

ye its a custom v with sharp edges, like a king v