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  1. #16
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    well I was partly joking -- I believe that 10 pin bowling lanes are nail laminated rather than glued, and I know of at least one road bridge that was nail laminated

    but back to your bench
    if it's the skirt, then it needs to bond pretty closely to the top.
    However, having done that, the skirt is likely to have a slight wave in it which will need to be taken out so the front face forms a flat reference surface.
    An option would be to glue and (countersink) screw the skirt (using titebond) and then cover the screws with a thin (say 1/2 - 3/4" thick) cover strip that you plane straight
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    686

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    Groggy,

    Epoxies need a minimum glue line thickness of about 1/2mm to get their strength. Too thin a glue line doesn't cut it. May not be your ideal glue if strength is the issue and you've cut joinery accurately.

    To get the strength, just key/rough up the surface with a saw or chisel. Internal glue line in places is more than 1/2mm.

    Cheers,

    eddie

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Colyton, NSW
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    81
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    374

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    This should help

    Epiglue Data Sheet
    John

  5. #19
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    Jan 2005
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    Thanks for the replies everyone, it has been quite informative. The 0.5mm should work well.

    well I was partly joking -- I believe that 10 pin bowling lanes are nail laminated rather than glued, and I know of at least one road bridge that was nail laminated
    Thought you may have been, but all ideas are worth consideration. What I am thinking now is that just before the glue-up I will put an 80 grit belt on my sander and rough up the mating surfaces to within 15mm of the edges. From what I have read that should work pretty well.

    I've learned a bit in this thread, thanks everyone!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    686

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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    Thanks for the replies everyone, it has been quite informative. The 0.5mm should work well.

    Thought you may have been, but all ideas are worth consideration. What I am thinking now is that just before the glue-up I will put an 80 grit belt on my sander and rough up the mating surfaces to within 15mm of the edges. From what I have read that should work pretty well.

    I've learned a bit in this thread, thanks everyone!
    Hi Groggy,

    I noticed in the datasheet linked above that the optimum gluline for this glue was 0.134 (?) mm - I read it yesterday and am quoting from memory. It's on the datasheet as Optimum DFT (Dried Film Thickness) - I'd be aiming at about .2mm (a cigarette paper thick) then letting it set/shrink.

    When I went through uni, the ballpark epoxy number we were taught was about 1/2mm

    CHeers,

    eddie

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