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15th March 2011, 11:12 PM #16
well I was partly joking -- I believe that 10 pin bowling lanes are nail laminated rather than glued, and I know of at least one road bridge that was nail laminated
but back to your bench
if it's the skirt, then it needs to bond pretty closely to the top.
However, having done that, the skirt is likely to have a slight wave in it which will need to be taken out so the front face forms a flat reference surface.
An option would be to glue and (countersink) screw the skirt (using titebond) and then cover the screws with a thin (say 1/2 - 3/4" thick) cover strip that you plane straightregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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16th March 2011, 04:49 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Groggy,
Epoxies need a minimum glue line thickness of about 1/2mm to get their strength. Too thin a glue line doesn't cut it. May not be your ideal glue if strength is the issue and you've cut joinery accurately.
To get the strength, just key/rough up the surface with a saw or chisel. Internal glue line in places is more than 1/2mm.
Cheers,
eddie
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16th March 2011, 07:08 AM #18
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16th March 2011, 12:25 PM #19
Thanks for the replies everyone, it has been quite informative. The 0.5mm should work well.
well I was partly joking -- I believe that 10 pin bowling lanes are nail laminated rather than glued, and I know of at least one road bridge that was nail laminated
I've learned a bit in this thread, thanks everyone!
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19th March 2011, 06:33 AM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Groggy,
I noticed in the datasheet linked above that the optimum gluline for this glue was 0.134 (?) mm - I read it yesterday and am quoting from memory. It's on the datasheet as Optimum DFT (Dried Film Thickness) - I'd be aiming at about .2mm (a cigarette paper thick) then letting it set/shrink.
When I went through uni, the ballpark epoxy number we were taught was about 1/2mm
CHeers,
eddie
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