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Thread: Epoxy glue line

  1. #1
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    Default Epoxy glue line

    Does anyone know how to reduce the glue line you get with epoxy joints. When I do a dry clamp up you can't see any gap around the joint but when I glue the joint with epoxy, I always get a glue line along the joint. Any thoughts?

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

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  3. #2
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    Hi Superbunny
    I am not sure what you mean.I use epoxy glue because I get very close joints.Well I think they are OK .I have included a photo and it includes a ruler to give you an idea of size. You should be able to click on photo to enlarge,then click on bottom rh corner click to get to full screen.
    OH and I am no expert and only have cheap gear.
    Last edited by AUSSIE; 13th July 2009 at 10:42 PM. Reason: spell
    Back To Car Building & All The Sawdust.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by AUSSIE View Post
    Hi Superbunny
    I am not sure what you mean.I use epoxy glue because I get very close joints.Well I think they are OK .I have included a photo and it includes a ruler to give you an idea of size. You should be able to click on photo to enlarge,then click on bottom rh corner click to get to full screen.
    OH and I am no expert and only have cheap gear.
    Thanks, I see you are getting better results than me. My glue lines are much bigger, I wonder if it depends on the amount I put on as yours seem very acceptable to me.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    Thanks, I see you are getting better results than me. My glue lines are much bigger, I wonder if it depends on the amount I put on as yours seem very acceptable to me.

    SB
    I am not sure what I do,but seeing no one else has answered I will see how I go here..
    It isnt the quality of my saw.It cost less than $100 new.I made a 32mmMDF top with a groove for a mitre slot.Set it up with an incra e V127Miter and track that I got on special at the wood show I then bought a 60 tooth Irwin blade and set the lot up to cut exactly 90 in both directions and made a zero clearance board for the blade.
    I just cut the wood.Rip or crosscut and wipe the epoxy on with a small offcut then clamp .Clean up with a scraper when set.
    That is all I can tell you
    PS give us a photo of one of your joints
    Back To Car Building & All The Sawdust.

  6. #5
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    I'll hop in, an epoxy joint will have a wider joint line as the clamping pressures required are far lower than yellow glue/PVA where the glue is forced into the wood.

    An epoxy joint needs a film of glue to remain in the joint for strength which is why epoxy has good gap filling qualities so as ever there are compromises.

    Add a little wood flour to the mix to hide the join.

    Cheers
    Mike

  7. #6
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    We might be talking different grades of Glue here I think.I use 30min and 5 min epoxy.as far as I know it is made for model making. Get it from the hobby shop. sometimes I use the cheap syringes as well.It is fairly thin and I would have trouble getting it to hold in place if I had a gap like you are talking about.
    I am sure the RC airplane guys wouldnt put up with gaps in their joints.
    Back To Car Building & All The Sawdust.

  8. #7
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    I usually tint epoxy if glue lines are going to be exposed, but I'm talking about Techniglue.
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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    I usually tint epoxy if glue lines are going to be exposed, but I'm talking about Techniglue.
    Yes, I'm using techniglue as well. I think I'll try tinting, I think the west system is used for tinting as it comes in different consistences. Thanks all for your help.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

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