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17th April 2018, 11:17 AM #1Senior Member
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Free non-stick non marking glue pads and shims
Hello Everybody,
2 & 3 litre milk bottles are made of a non stick plastic [non stick for pva and titebond 11] and the manufactured to very tight tolerances. Wash them out cut them with scissors or knife. Cut off and discard any rounded surfaces so that the piece or pieces you have are perfectly flat on a table saw top. I usually end up with 4 70mm squares from on 2 litre bottle. So a high wastage.
Word of caution: I haven't tried it with epoxy but my suspicion is that it will bond with epoxy. If anyone does try let me know.
Cheers
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17th April 2018, 01:14 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Good tip - thanks.
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17th April 2018, 03:59 PM #3.
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The plastic is High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) and it won't bond that well with epoxy but it will using certain types of double sided tape.
What I'd like to have is the adhesive they use for the bottle abels.
For a moment I though you suggested lining the top of a TS with it but be careful about doing this.
If the HDPE is attached to the table top, the CI and HDPE will expand different amounts as the temperatures change especially in a hot shed. HDPE is also relatively soft so it will spread slowly like a thick paste under even light pressure and eventually the HDPE will buckle producing an uneven surface and start to peel off at the corners. Then these act like moisture traps and will lead to an absolute mess and you will want to rip it all off. I found this out when I lined the runners of my chainsaw mill with thin HDPE. It only lasted about 9 months. I have since lined it with 3mm thick HDPE and that lasted about 3 years before it started to buckle and had to be replaced.
This has implications for its use as a permanent shim, as I said above it will spread under load so you can't guarantee it will stay the same thickness even on the same piece all the time
I use milk bottle plastic for other things and found the easiest way to get the labels off is to pour boiling water over the label and it comes off easily leaving no adhesive residue behind.
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18th April 2018, 06:12 PM #4Senior Member
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Thanks Bob
Hi Bob,
Thanks for spotting these points.I am sorry if anyone has been misled.
1. The reference to the table saw was as a flat surface. This is only to make sure that when you have cut your piece it lies flat and you don't have a bit of a corner making it bow or cup. Any flat surface will do kitchen bench top work table etc. Its just, for me, most of the time, the one flat surface that I can find quickly its the TS.
2. I am only suggesting it for single use glue ups not for permanent use. I worked this out when I was trying to make a sacrificial fence that saddled the Incra fence I wanted it tight but with just the tiniest amount of play so that I could take it on and off. I also didn't want to spend hours removing glue from the Incra fence. It worked a charm. I have also used it for external corners on picture frames. Use once and throw out. Don't waste time and rags cleaning.
Cheers
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