Thread: Garret Wade 202 GF - too glue up table top

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

Epoxy is a really strong glue, for sure!
But,
I wouldn't use it for display furniture, it leaves a DARK glue line which I find quite poor for good quality furniture.
If you are joining boards to make a top for a table, for example, I would consider glue lines very poor qulaity work.

Major,

I have to take issue with you. I used epoxy to glue up this table top, and the glue lines are invisible, apart from the change in grain pattern, because I took care to ensure that the boards were properly jointed, so as to leave no gaps between them; so there is no dark glue line. If you do use PVA for glueing up table tops and panels, careful jointing can minimize the creep/ribbing problem, but, if the jointing is less than perfect, creep is a big worry with PVA.

Rocker

Nice table top Rocker. What timber?

Major, re epoxy & glue lines... It took me years of using epoxy for gluing panels & table tops (West System: www.westsystem.com) to realise I was using too much epoxy - which was causing the noticable glue line. Using only a VERY thin film of epoxy on each surface gives a strong and invisible glue line. Also, I was mixing in too much thickening agent to make the glue more viscous. This is OK for structural & gap filling joins, but unnecessary for panels. So now I use very little and very runny epoxy (flows like PVA or yellow glue) and I great invisible glue lines like Rocker. And they are VERY strong. And I have at least 30 minutes of open time before clamping. Which takes most of the stress out of glue jobs. For me anyway.

Richard

Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead

Nice table top Rocker. What timber?

Richard

Richard,

It is an unusually red board of Jarrah. See http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=18559

Rocker

aabb - I used titebond II. I also use the triton yellow glue because I have a bottle of it in the shed.

I suspect that as long as you use a good brand (either of the above are good), it doens't make too much difference. IMHO epoxy is a bit of overkill - the others will do the job fine and are cheaper and easier to use.

Trav

Thank Trav and everyone else.. the top was put into one piece yesterday and is still in one piece today! - used triton glue as that was only one mentioned in posts that bunnies in Fyshwick had when I visited.

I am very pleased with result and much less sanding will be required than I had imagined.... ie no need for thickneser or planing thankfully.

Albert,

I suggest that, since you have used a PVA glue, before you apply the finish to your table top, you leave it for a week or two, and keep the top in a warm environment in the house, so that any creep and consequent ribbing of the glue lines can happen, and then be sanded flat.

Rocker

Originally Posted by Rocker

Major,

I have to take issue with you. I used epoxy to glue up this table top, and the glue lines are invisible, apart from the change in grain pattern, because I took care to ensure that the boards were properly jointed, so as to leave no gaps between them; so there is no dark glue line. If you do use PVA for glueing up table tops and panels, careful jointing can minimize the creep/ribbing problem, but, if the jointing is less than perfect, creep is a big worry with PVA.

Rocker

Rocker,

The top looks great & I don't see any glue lines.
It's just that I've seen quite a few poor quality glue ups using epoxy.

Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead

Major, re epoxy & glue lines... It took me years of using epoxy for gluing panels & table tops (West System: www.westsystem.com) to realise I was using too much epoxy - which was causing the noticable glue line. Using only a VERY thin film of epoxy on each surface gives a strong and invisible glue line. Also, I was mixing in too much thickening agent to make the glue more viscous. This is OK for structural & gap filling joins, but unnecessary for panels. So now I use very little and very runny epoxy (flows like PVA or yellow glue) and I great invisible glue lines like Rocker. And they are VERY strong. And I have at least 30 minutes of open time before clamping. Which takes most of the stress out of glue jobs. For me anyway.

I reckon Richard is on to the solution!
If you are gluing panels they should be properly jointed as you say Rocker. Therefore you wouldn't need any filler in the epoxy. If you use very little glue you should no or little glue lines.

Originally Posted by Rocker

Albert,

I suggest that, since you have used a PVA glue, before you apply the finish to your table top, you leave it for a week or two, and keep the top in a warm environment in the house, so that any creep and consequent ribbing of the glue lines can happen, and then be sanded flat.

Rocker

Thanks Rocker for advice - will do ...

Albert