Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 13 of 13
Thread: Glue creep - please suggest
-
17th January 2022, 08:02 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 1,125
Glue creep - please suggest
I have just finished my TB II and I want to avoid TB altogether now and I am thinking either the SikaBond Woodworking glue or the HB Fuller Max Bond.
Curious to hear from those who have experience with either. Any creep at all? (TB II I noticed that it could creep in lamination - eg table top situations)
Also any idea what the clamp time was for the SikaBond? Website doesnt say. The Max bond is 2 hours which seems like a long time compared to TB's 30mins. SikaBond 48 hours for max strength which seems like a very long time...
Also the Max bond says it dries opaque - how does it look? The Sikabond is translucent which is nice.
-
17th January 2022 08:02 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
17th January 2022, 08:26 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- In between houses
- Posts
- 1,784
Sika PVA is pretty good I’ve had a 4 litre bottle which we glued up all the doors and panels on the big house on the river it was fine. Max bond is a different type of glue it’s very thick, and from experience demolishing places where it’s been used, it goes very hard and brittle after a few years. Personally I prefer to use epoxy for almost everything, and buying it in a 4 litre kit, with fume silica atmospheres to add, you can make it as thin or thick as you want, and it’s strong as buggery. It works out cheaper than that titebond stuff.
-
18th January 2022, 04:55 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Location
- Caroline Springs, VIC
- Posts
- 1,645
Titebond Original doesn't creep to any noticeable level. Titebond II creeps a little bit, and Titebond III creeps a lot. It comes down to the flexibility of the glues. Original is pretty rigid, whereas TBIII is super flexible to withstand the changing conditions for external use.
-
18th January 2022, 06:12 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 1,125
This is what I wanted to know, if people have had experience with creep with parfix or hb fuller. Maybe Im slow but I find Tb original working time too short. There's also titebond extend, but I figure it's nice to get an aussie product if I can and something with some level of water resistance
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
-
18th January 2022, 06:13 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 1,125
Hmm can't edit my post...
I'm meant to say sika not parfix in my previous post. Both these companies claim the glue is flexible which is why I'm questioning it
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
-
18th January 2022, 07:11 PM #6
I use Sikabond, TBII and previously AV Syntec AVXL Plus (Bostik) in almost all of my laminations for wood turnings and inlay banding.
In my experience the Sikabond does have a slightly longer open time than TBII and even though the pH of both is similar the Sikabond does not react so much with tannin rich woods. AV Syntec AVXL Plus is very good as well, only reason I stopped using it is the local supplier will only supply to ABN holders (????).
I have used Selleys PVA's and some Parfix (Selleys) but prefer the others, yet PowderPost swears by Selleys.Mobyturns
In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever
-
18th January 2022, 09:49 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 1,125
Ive havent heard great comments about Selleys which is why it isnt really on my short list. I bought a small bottle of Parfix when I first started woodworking it was really bad. I watched all these youtube videos where they said its all the same the glue is stronger than the timber. Parfix is not stronger than the timber lol.
In terms of creep, did you notice creep from sika,TBII or AVXL plus?
-
19th January 2022, 12:24 AM #8
-
5th May 2022, 12:09 AM #9New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2022
- Location
- Eastern Tennessee, US
- Posts
- 5
some glue choice thoughts
Titebond regular or glue formulated essentially identically, is the preferred glue for assembling furniture in US factories. I used to fill a gallon bottle from the 55 gallon drums at a local factory. I use it in all applications where its working time permit.
Its working time can be greatly extended by this tip. It is an inherent property of polymers such as this one that a partially cured joint will have huge impact strength and little shear strength. The result is a seized mortise and tenon joint can be pounded until the wood splits and not budge. However, steady pressure from a clamp will slide this recalcitrant joint together effortlessly.
I produce case pieces at a steady pace. I prefer to glue them together at one time, sometimes assembling as many as 50 or more mortise and tenon and dovetail joints in the case. In these situations I use Franklin liquid hide glue. This adhesive is stable for years if stored in the frig and the working time enables something as complicated as a piece like this one to be assembled all at once.
glue.jpg
-
5th May 2022, 06:02 PM #10
My thoughts on Parfix haven't changed: Parfix PVA Wood Glue
I'd regard it as pure evil.
My favourite is TB1, but one has to be damned quick with it, but its excellent.
I have several unopened 4L bottles of TB2 and 3 and used them on MDF. For that job, its absolutely fantastic. I used TB2 on pine and it is equally fabulous.
I was talking with some woodworkers here and they used something called AV180 and they praised it very highly indeed, though it is expensive.
Edit:
ADHESIVE PVA AVXL PLUS 5 LITRE CROSSLINKING | AVS Adhesives | Lincoln Sentry is $82
ADHESIVE MDF BOARD AV180 5 LITRE MEDIUM BOND | AVS Adhesives | Lincoln Sentry is $113
So its expensive, but Id bet there is a very good reason for that.
-
5th May 2022, 07:54 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 684
Adheseal Unobond polyurethane for panel glue ups is great. Fast dry time, no creap, easy to apply in a caulk tube. I have used it on some coffee table joinery M&T's and haven't had any problems with those joints.
-
5th May 2022, 08:59 PM #12
I used to use Selleys aquadhere (internal), for segmenting. I found after a month or so it would "bead" at the joints. I have changed to Selleys aquadhere, external and haven't experienced any creep or failures. For what I do, segmenting, I find the set up time good, plus it sets quickly. Some of the pieces have been around for more than twenty years and are still in good shape.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
-
21st June 2022, 11:12 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- US
- Posts
- 3,124
this is also confirmed in the guitar community. TB1 makes a good guitar - but further there, it can be more easily opened with steam and heat. Not easily like hide glue, but easy enough to consider it reasonably reversible.
it's hard, and I've never had a creep issue with it. the reversibility has obvious implications if it comes into contact with moisture on a regular basis, though.
Similar Threads
-
Glue creep - how to avoid
By Fumbler in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 9Last Post: 8th December 2020, 12:23 PM -
PVA glue creep
By qwertyu in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 14th October 2018, 10:04 AM -
Glue Lam or Steam Bent? - View these pics and suggest cheapest, most effective method
By cubbykids in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 9Last Post: 10th July 2018, 10:27 PM -
Whats the best glue to use to avoid creep ?
By JDarvall in forum GLUEReplies: 21Last Post: 1st April 2009, 02:14 PM