Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default Glue creep - please suggest

    I have just finished my TB II and I want to avoid TB altogether now and I am thinking either the SikaBond Woodworking glue or the HB Fuller Max Bond.

    Curious to hear from those who have experience with either. Any creep at all? (TB II I noticed that it could creep in lamination - eg table top situations)

    Also any idea what the clamp time was for the SikaBond? Website doesnt say. The Max bond is 2 hours which seems like a long time compared to TB's 30mins. SikaBond 48 hours for max strength which seems like a very long time...

    Also the Max bond says it dries opaque - how does it look? The Sikabond is translucent which is nice.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    Sika PVA is pretty good I’ve had a 4 litre bottle which we glued up all the doors and panels on the big house on the river it was fine. Max bond is a different type of glue it’s very thick, and from experience demolishing places where it’s been used, it goes very hard and brittle after a few years. Personally I prefer to use epoxy for almost everything, and buying it in a 4 litre kit, with fume silica atmospheres to add, you can make it as thin or thick as you want, and it’s strong as buggery. It works out cheaper than that titebond stuff.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Titebond Original doesn't creep to any noticeable level. Titebond II creeps a little bit, and Titebond III creeps a lot. It comes down to the flexibility of the glues. Original is pretty rigid, whereas TBIII is super flexible to withstand the changing conditions for external use.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    This is what I wanted to know, if people have had experience with creep with parfix or hb fuller. Maybe Im slow but I find Tb original working time too short. There's also titebond extend, but I figure it's nice to get an aussie product if I can and something with some level of water resistance

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    Hmm can't edit my post...

    I'm meant to say sika not parfix in my previous post. Both these companies claim the glue is flexible which is why I'm questioning it

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  7. #6
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    4,413

    Default

    I use Sikabond, TBII and previously AV Syntec AVXL Plus (Bostik) in almost all of my laminations for wood turnings and inlay banding.

    In my experience the Sikabond does have a slightly longer open time than TBII and even though the pH of both is similar the Sikabond does not react so much with tannin rich woods. AV Syntec AVXL Plus is very good as well, only reason I stopped using it is the local supplier will only supply to ABN holders (????).

    I have used Selleys PVA's and some Parfix (Selleys) but prefer the others, yet PowderPost swears by Selleys.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    Ive havent heard great comments about Selleys which is why it isnt really on my short list. I bought a small bottle of Parfix when I first started woodworking it was really bad. I watched all these youtube videos where they said its all the same the glue is stronger than the timber. Parfix is not stronger than the timber lol.

    In terms of creep, did you notice creep from sika,TBII or AVXL plus?

  9. #8
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    4,413

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    In terms of creep, did you notice creep from sika,TBII or AVXL plus?
    Not in the pieces that I have done. Mind you most end up being 2 mm or less in thickness. Have a look in my album.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee, US
    Posts
    5

    Default some glue choice thoughts

    Titebond regular or glue formulated essentially identically, is the preferred glue for assembling furniture in US factories. I used to fill a gallon bottle from the 55 gallon drums at a local factory. I use it in all applications where its working time permit.

    Its working time can be greatly extended by this tip. It is an inherent property of polymers such as this one that a partially cured joint will have huge impact strength and little shear strength. The result is a seized mortise and tenon joint can be pounded until the wood splits and not budge. However, steady pressure from a clamp will slide this recalcitrant joint together effortlessly.

    I produce case pieces at a steady pace. I prefer to glue them together at one time, sometimes assembling as many as 50 or more mortise and tenon and dovetail joints in the case. In these situations I use Franklin liquid hide glue. This adhesive is stable for years if stored in the frig and the working time enables something as complicated as a piece like this one to be assembled all at once.
    glue.jpg

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    My thoughts on Parfix haven't changed: Parfix PVA Wood Glue

    I'd regard it as pure evil.

    My favourite is TB1, but one has to be damned quick with it, but its excellent.

    I have several unopened 4L bottles of TB2 and 3 and used them on MDF. For that job, its absolutely fantastic. I used TB2 on pine and it is equally fabulous.

    I was talking with some woodworkers here and they used something called AV180 and they praised it very highly indeed, though it is expensive.

    Edit:

    ADHESIVE PVA AVXL PLUS 5 LITRE CROSSLINKING | AVS Adhesives | Lincoln Sentry is $82
    ADHESIVE MDF BOARD AV180 5 LITRE MEDIUM BOND | AVS Adhesives | Lincoln Sentry is $113

    So its expensive, but Id bet there is a very good reason for that.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Adheseal Unobond polyurethane for panel glue ups is great. Fast dry time, no creap, easy to apply in a caulk tube. I have used it on some coffee table joinery M&T's and haven't had any problems with those joints.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
    Age
    83
    Posts
    3,069

    Default

    I used to use Selleys aquadhere (internal), for segmenting. I found after a month or so it would "bead" at the joints. I have changed to Selleys aquadhere, external and haven't experienced any creep or failures. For what I do, segmenting, I find the set up time good, plus it sets quickly. Some of the pieces have been around for more than twenty years and are still in good shape.

    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    Titebond Original doesn't creep to any noticeable level. Titebond II creeps a little bit, and Titebond III creeps a lot. It comes down to the flexibility of the glues. Original is pretty rigid, whereas TBIII is super flexible to withstand the changing conditions for external use.
    this is also confirmed in the guitar community. TB1 makes a good guitar - but further there, it can be more easily opened with steam and heat. Not easily like hide glue, but easy enough to consider it reasonably reversible.

    it's hard, and I've never had a creep issue with it. the reversibility has obvious implications if it comes into contact with moisture on a regular basis, though.

Similar Threads

  1. Glue creep - how to avoid
    By Fumbler in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 8th December 2020, 12:23 PM
  2. PVA glue creep
    By qwertyu in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 14th October 2018, 10:04 AM
  3. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10th July 2018, 10:27 PM
  4. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 1st April 2009, 02:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •