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6th February 2015, 08:56 PM #1Member
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Best glue for edge-to-edge kitchen worktop joint.
Hiya fellas,
I'm replacing the kitchen bench-top in my rental on the cheap using some lengths of 38mm postformed laminate worktop. Unfortunately this stuff is only postformed on one edge the other being typical exposed MR particle board. Of course just my luck to need one length (1200mm) to have the rounded edge on both sides.
So I figure my best option is to saw a 50mm wide strip of the postformed edge off a spare piece of worktop and attach it to the bench. This would also make the benchtop wider so there is overhang on both sides of the cabinets.
I plan on using biscuits for alignment but I'm undecided on which glue to use between just Titebond 3, an adhesive/sealant like Sikaflex 11FC, polyurethane or epoxy.
I know edge-to-edge particleboard joints are not ideal but I figure with enough biscuits, the right glue and the fact that the join should be sitting over the cabinet, I might be OK.
Love to hear your thoughts... cheers.
Mike
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6th February 2015, 09:50 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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6th February 2015, 11:33 PM #3
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7th February 2015, 01:46 AM #4Member
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7th February 2015, 08:58 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Iust a thought.
Consider cutting the edges of the bench with a router and large straight bit. Make your initial cut with a saw but oversize, which will leave a very ordinary edge. Align your 2 pieces with a gap just smaller than your straight router bit, clamp everything in place and then clamp a straight edge across for the router to follow. Pass the router across the join which will clean up the edges of the cut. Any slight deviation left or right will be complimented as you are cutting (just actually cleaning up the original cut) both pieces together. You should be able to do a full depth cut as you are in fact only just trimming the pieces.
I have used this before - a little fiddly but well worth the effort.
PS - ensure that the router bit is sharp.Regards,
Bob
Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
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7th February 2015, 09:08 AM #6
Pretty much agree with Bob although I'd use the router on the wide piece only and put the thin piece through a jointer or router table. Use a SHARP 1/2" router bit 50mm long for the best results.
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7th February 2015, 10:25 AM #7Member
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7th February 2015, 03:05 PM #8
Any modern glue (with possibly the exception of those $2 for 500ml PVA kiddie craft glues) will be strong enough. Even hide glue would cope, except for the whole 'probably get wet often' thing!
To me it would either be Titebond or epoxy; I'd go with epoxy as:
a) I have plenty on hand
b) It is 100% waterproof, and it will waterproof the timber surface it is applied to
c) It will also act as a gap filler for the seam in the laminate top (when it sets, it's essentially solid plastic)
d) Longer open time, which might be a blessing.
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7th February 2015, 06:47 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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