Thread: Best glue for edge-to-edge kitchen worktop joint.

Hi Mike, you should be fine with Titebond III, It is fully waterproof and foodsafe.

Originally Posted by Mike B

Hiya fellas,

I'm replacing the kitchen bench-top in my rental on the cheap using some lengths of 38mm postformed laminate worktop. Unfortunately this stuff is only postformed on one edge the other being typical exposed MR particle board. Of course just my luck to need one length (1200mm) to have the rounded edge on both sides.

So I figure my best option is to saw a 50mm wide strip of the postformed edge off a spare piece of worktop and attach it to the bench. This would also make the benchtop wider so there is overhang on both sides of the cabinets.

I plan on using biscuits for alignment but I'm undecided on which glue to use between just Titebond 3, an adhesive/sealant like Sikaflex 11FC, polyurethane or epoxy.

I know edge-to-edge particleboard joints are not ideal but I figure with enough biscuits, the right glue and the fact that the join should be sitting over the cabinet, I might be OK.

Love to hear your thoughts... cheers.

Mike

Originally Posted by Mike B

Hiya fellas,

I'm replacing the kitchen bench-top in my rental on the cheap using some lengths of 38mm postformed laminate worktop. Unfortunately this stuff is only postformed on one edge the other being typical exposed MR particle board. Of course just my luck to need one length (1200mm) to have the rounded edge on both sides.

So I figure my best option is to saw a 50mm wide strip of the postformed edge off a spare piece of worktop and attach it to the bench. This would also make the benchtop wider so there is overhang on both sides of the cabinets.

I plan on using biscuits for alignment but I'm undecided on which glue to use between just Titebond 3, an adhesive/sealant like Sikaflex 11FC, polyurethane or epoxy.

I know edge-to-edge particleboard joints are not ideal but I figure with enough biscuits, the right glue and the fact that the join should be sitting over the cabinet, I might be OK.

Love to hear your thoughts...

unless you are real careful with the cut, the joint will look crap.
Personally I'd put the joint in the middle of the strip, or better still commission a piece the right width

Originally Posted by ian

unless you are real careful with the cut, the joint will look crap.
Personally I'd put the joint in the middle of the strip, or better still commission a piece the right width

The cut is not an issue. It will certainly look no worse than the regular worktop mitre joint in the corners. Plus the laminate design has a "timber" pattern that will somewhat disguise the line.

Custom? Love to, but no time and not a wise investment in this case.

Iust a thought.

Consider cutting the edges of the bench with a router and large straight bit. Make your initial cut with a saw but oversize, which will leave a very ordinary edge. Align your 2 pieces with a gap just smaller than your straight router bit, clamp everything in place and then clamp a straight edge across for the router to follow. Pass the router across the join which will clean up the edges of the cut. Any slight deviation left or right will be complimented as you are cutting (just actually cleaning up the original cut) both pieces together. You should be able to do a full depth cut as you are in fact only just trimming the pieces.

I have used this before - a little fiddly but well worth the effort.

PS - ensure that the router bit is sharp.

Pretty much agree with Bob although I'd use the router on the wide piece only and put the thin piece through a jointer or router table. Use a SHARP 1/2" router bit 50mm long for the best results.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Pretty much agree with Bob although I'd use the router on the wide piece only and put the thin piece through a jointer or router table. Use a SHARP 1/2" router bit 50mm long for the best results.

Yep, I am definitely planning on trimming with a track saw and cleaning up with a router.
Still undecided on a glue... still not sure Titebond would have the holding power in this case?

Any modern glue (with possibly the exception of those $2 for 500ml PVA kiddie craft glues) will be strong enough. Even hide glue would cope, except for the whole 'probably get wet often' thing!

To me it would either be Titebond or epoxy; I'd go with epoxy as:
a) I have plenty on hand
b) It is 100% waterproof, and it will waterproof the timber surface it is applied to
c) It will also act as a gap filler for the seam in the laminate top (when it sets, it's essentially solid plastic)
d) Longer open time, which might be a blessing.

You could also use these