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Thread: Glue help on Cypress pine
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18th March 2015, 10:17 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Glue help on Cypress pine
Have a bit of a problem, I glued up about 13 mortise and tenon joints on a slat rail using cypress pine and Shelleys interior PVA glue.
I have never had a problem before with this glue and have always found it to be strong but have also never worked with cypress pine. The problem I now have is that the glue has not worked very well and all of the joints have been able to make their way loose with a little bit of help (I glued it up about two weeks ago so it should well and truly be set)
So my questions now are
1. Can I use PVA on cypress pine or do I need to use another type of glue?
2. Since the joints now have a layer of dried glue on them will I need to clean them back up or will re gluing them work?
I think my plan now is to use an epoxy resin.... yes or no?
I am very disheartened that the joints failed after the time I spent setting them up.
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18th March 2015 10:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th March 2015, 11:41 PM #2
thinking back on the glue up --
how long did it take you to assemble all the joints?
how hot was it at the time?
could it be that because of time and temperature, the glue skinned over before all the joints were assembled and clamped?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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18th March 2015, 11:54 PM #3
The Pine ??.
Hi grantoboy,
My thinking is you are using " The Oily Murray Pine " & not the ordinary Crypress, that has no oil in it.
Maybe this is why it will not stick.
NSW is a big place, so where are you.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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19th March 2015, 06:22 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the replies. Glue up was pretty quick with the glue still being wet. Also the tempeture I don't recall but I do have a refrigerated air conditioner that I have on so if it was hot outside I would have the a/c on.
I'm located in Narrabri a few hours either side of the Qld border and Tamworth.
While the wood does not feel oily I have read that cyress normally is.
Now if this is the case I am in a bit of trouble as I have done 2x panel glue ups in the same fashion and also 4x long rabbit joints, plus there is another piece the exact same made as the one that didn't hold. (Trying to make a baby cot for my unborn)
So if the wood is too oily what is my best bet to glue it up?
I have worked with oily woods before (my bench is made from iron bark) and boy is it oily, but it appears to still be holding and I used the same glue on it.
Thanks agajn.
Grant
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19th March 2015, 11:55 AM #5
If you clean both surfaces to be glued with acetone that removes any oil. White sprit as a second choice. Even epoxy wont stick to an oily surface. I usually wipe with acetone any time I have any suspicion about the wood being oily. Another tip for glue ups is fresh cut joints take glue better than wood that has sat around for a while. Shelf life of glue is another factor. You will now have to clean the old glue off the M&Ts so epoxy may now be the better choice as it will fill any gaps left from scrapeing the old glue off.
Regards
John
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21st March 2015, 07:42 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the replies guys. Upon closer inspection of the failed joints it appears either the glue is off or the oil from the wood mixed with it and made it fail.
The glue is not hard and is soft almost like squeeze out gets after a few hours. So either the glue is off or the oil mixed with it.
I cleaned the joints, wiped them down with acetone and used a long setting epoxy to glue them up. Now the long wait to see if it worked. 8 hrs for setup time then 3 days for full cure time.
Fingers are crossed.
I'm in Sydney next week so might drop by carbatec and get some titebond 3.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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7th March 2018, 05:00 PM #7Novice
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Actually, cypress timber contains a substance called cypresscine, and all you need to do is prepare the wood as per normal and wipe the glue face down with metholated spirits. Once the metho has dried (a minute or two), you can glue away.
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20th September 2018, 12:22 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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1st June 2019, 04:59 PM #9Senior Member
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Only done this once - so might have been lucky - was on a small display unit (all joints slightly rebated -1.1/2 mm or so and fairly firm) with no other support (no pins/screws or even a back)made from decking board offcuts remilled to kill the corner round-over and have had no issues. (though this is a low stress item - ony supports a resin teddy collection) In any case I used a cross link PVA as i do with most things. The cross link is a different beast to your cheap nasty PVA but I might have been lucky? Oil content might still be an issue? Don't know but polyurethane might be better?
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1st June 2019, 05:18 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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