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Thread: Best glue for hot item
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17th October 2005, 02:54 PM #1
Best glue for hot item
Saw a table lamp in a shop today, thought " Gee that's nice" immediately followed by "I could make that"
It's timber and glass - and obviously encloses a bulb, consequently will get a little warm, Timber will be Jarrah for the panels and Tallowood for the frame.
What glue will manage the heat and (presumably) the expansion and contraction best? Its a little delicate to use traditional joints.
I have PVA, Yellow PVA and Epoxy techniglue.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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17th October 2005, 04:40 PM #2New Member
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G'day Bodgy
Is it a timber to timber bond you are talking about or a timber to glass bond?
Alex.
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17th October 2005, 05:17 PM #3Originally Posted by Alex dSBodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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17th October 2005, 06:43 PM #4Member
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Hi Bodgy,
How about a high heat-resistant silicone sealant? Selleys makes a clear 401 product which might hold the glass in the same way putty would. Only problem I can think of is the silicone possibly effecting the final finish you put on the timber.Cheers, Craig
What was the greatest thing before sliced bread? :confused:
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18th October 2005, 08:56 AM #5New Member
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I reckon Stylesy is on a winner there Bodgy. You could try a silicone specifically for glass for a stronger bond. The silicone shouldn't effect the stain or the timber - might want to test it out on an off cut.
You could also try a polyurethane glue. They have good adhesion to glass and timber, high heat resistance and some flexibility. Something like Gorilla Glue or Durabond.
Alex.
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19th October 2005, 12:12 AM #6
If its wood to wood and it isn't getting hot enough to be a problem to the timber pva or yellow pva should be fine.
Consider the fire risk, provide enough ventilation.
Silicon will handle heaps of heat, I've repaired theatre lantern lenses with it & stands up to 1000 wat halogen lamps at close range, but & don't think it's necessary here.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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19th October 2005, 10:00 AM #7
Thank you Gentlemen. I'll try silicone for the glass/tallowood and yellow PVA for Jarrah/Tallowood (Cause I've got some)
I also will use a flourescent bulb for low heat radiation - and they seem to last 4 x as long.
Will post piccies when complete, if it not TOOOOOO embarrasing and I can hide the inevitable cock-ups.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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