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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Default Which glue for laminating?

    Unable to locate solid timber for a WIP, I'm faced with laminating stock up to the thickness I require. I would normally use animal glue, but I thought I'd try some sort of synthetic adhesive this time.

    The problem is, I know little about modern synthetic glues other than PVA and its derivatives seem to creep in time and I don't want the glue lines to be visible or felt to the touch.

    The wood is non-oily and nothing special. Can anyone recommend something that's readily available so I can send TBO out to get some?
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    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I generally use Techniglue, a 2 pack epoxy. I usually mix in a bit of pigment to avoid glue lines. I've also used an AV Syntec cross-linked PVA (AV206?), it's also a 2 pack, and has worked very well in highly stressed chair legs. I wouldn't use a single pack PVA of any sort where creep is likely.
    AVS seem to have taken their website down, so I'll see if I can dig out their data sheet to confirm the glue.
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  4. #3
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    Default

    Woodwould

    I would use Techniglue epoxy, available from Carbatec. No creep, good open time and sets solidly but with enough give not to shatter when hit - I know that our member Rocker used it for all the joints on his rocking chair and that included laminating the curved rockers.

    Edit: Was typing this while AlexS was typng his. Great minds think alike OR fools seldom differ?
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #4
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    Default

    It looks like AVS have been taken over by Lincoln Sentry and have reduced a lot of their lines. Can't find the one I was looking for, so I'd go with Techniglue. Give a light coat of wax where you don't want squeeze-out tostick. Gives you about half an hour working time. Spread it very thin & clamp up well. Squeeze out is easiest to remove at about 4 hours, before it's completely hard. If removing after it's gone right off, wear safety specs - it throws of sharp brittle chips.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    Default

    Actually AVS have been bought out by Bostik Adhesives. I had to get MSDSs for all the stuff in my workshop for a safety audit and had to email Bostik for them.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks men! I'll go for the Techniglue epoxy then.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Default Glue for laminating

    Hi Woodwould,

    I'd go for either epiglue or west system available from boat chandlers. Both are two pack epoxies with low or nil creep. I've laminated a lot of timber for turning large profiles using epiglue with no problem at all including dining table legs in our own home that haven't moved at all in 20 years on the joints. The dryness and the consistency of the dryness within and across the sticks is the key determinant of quality of the finished job in my estimation. Also leave the glued up laminates in the cramps for 5 to 7 days if you use epoxy. That's the full cure time at 20 oC.

    Cheers Old Pete

  9. #8
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    Aug 2004
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Techniglue is also what I use and it is excellent. Botecote epoxy also has an excellent reputation.

    Cheers
    Michael

  10. #9
    Join Date
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    Default

    I add my vote for techniglue. Wonderful stuff. I use it to laminate archery bows and it takes that kind of abuse being flexed thousands of times.
    When applying cover both surfaces of the joint. I wipe the wood with spirit or acitone first to remove any oils. Does not need a lot of clamping pressure, just enough to keep the surfaces together. Even pressure is what to aim for to get an even glue line. It is gap filling and dries almost clear coloured. Dry it in a warm place for really high stress applications.
    I have a fan heater to warm the shed when required. Anything glued up with this stays glued up and is stromger than the wood. Starting to sound like a salesman so thats all.

  11. #10
    Join Date
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    Thanks to all for replying, but I fear too much choice! In terms of numbers of recommendations, Techniglue has the vote and that's what I'll ask TBO to pick up for me.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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