Thread: New (?) Glue for laminating benchtops

Originally Posted by Clinton1

I am intending to use it to glue a lamination of 40 mm square Messmate lengths together into a bench top - so any thoughts would be appreciated.

I intend using Aquadhere when I do my bench lamination. End grain strength should not be an issue, as long as any endgrain joints are surrounded by long grain (like a brick wall). The quick skin time would seem to preclude the german stuff.

so how do you achieve "endgrain joints are surrounded by long grain (like a brick wall)" and accomodate movement. I would have thought that the movement of the bench across the grain would pull severely on the long grain??

Originally Posted by Clinton1

BTW - I have not done a laminated bench top before, and am doing the bench top to make a bench to make a wood working bench so I can do wood work on.

Is that before or after you do the woodorking on the bench you are making for a woodworking bench ? If it is, I'd definitely do the bench first , unless the other bench was better suited. Maybe you could do it while the glue on that one was drying in which case you wouldn't have to glue it up until after the top was made for the bench. Then you'd have to work fast, but not if you didn't use glue in the first instance. Then you wouldn't have the problem. Simple really.

aquadhere is really not suited for benchtops for any purpose,i would go with a single fix polyurethane glue ,(long skin time prefferably)for peace of mind,

zenwood, even if you don't want to fork out for polyurethane, at least use a yellow glue, better water resistance and you won't get the eventual creep in the joins.


Cheers...........Sean, bench pressure

A few days ago I did a hall table top with Triton yellow glue... its still together !

Albert

Howdy,

Everytime I see a post on laminating timber for benchtops, people talk about joining with opposing grains.. I'm not really sure what people mean. (BTW complete noob here) If I buy say 5 lengths of timer, it is unlikely that they will have come from the same stock, therefore they should all have very different grains when they are lined up.


Do you see what I mean? Can someone put <stoopid>/stoopid mode on and explain to me about grain orientation during laminating.

</stoopid> Cheers in advance

stoopid, err I mean antisense ^_^

Isn't the new Aquadhere+ the same as 'yellow' glue?

See attached for brick wall explanation.

Originally Posted by antisense

Everytime I see a post on laminating timber for benchtops, people talk about joining with opposing grains..

It's to do with the pattern of growth rings on the end grain. There are pros and cons to doing it each way

Seee pics

Incidentally, by 'benchtop' here, I am refering to a woodworking bench. Kitchen benchtops would have other considerations, like waterproofness...

Zenwood: quote "endgrain joints are surrounded by long grain"
Sorry - (engage my brain) now you make sense! I thought that what you meant was to laminate all the pieces together (all equal length) and then glue a piece across all the end grains. That thought got put in my mind and I've spent all day being distracted trying to figure it out. Hence my post about accomodating movement.
Incidentally if you know a way to put a length across end grain and accomodate movement i'd be glad to know.
Gumby: I'll tell you when I start the glue up, if I am not on the forum for a while after that please come looking. I'll be the guy out in Craigieburn sulking in his shed with a sash clamp glued to his hand and a table top stuck to his foot. Thats another question that's been bugging me, how to get the bench glued down flat (some of the strips are slightly bowed) when I don't have a flat surface to do it on. Watch out dining table Maybe I could buy a ute that folds out into a workbench, and make the bench on that?

Originally Posted by zenwood

Isn't the new Aquadhere+ the same as 'yellow' glue?

I thought it was, except for the colour?
I use Aquadhere+ for joining Ironbark boards together for kitchen bench tops. As yet I haven't had any problems (I use biscuits as well). I have had dramas with the 'yellow glue' not bonding with some timbers (although this may be a problem of the practitioner, not the glue). I should add that I also inlay strips of timber (10mm x 10mm) at diagonals underneath the bench just in case!

AFAIK, there are 3 types of Selleys aquadhere glue.

The original, which is a standard PVA type glue.

The Tradesman's Choice, which is a cross linking type PVA, faster for clamps off and full cure, stronger and more creep resistant.

The latest type, model name escapes me, that was released within the last 12 months. This type is a polyurethane glue, is supposed to glue wood to almost anything, and is waterproof.

Happy to be corrected if anything here is incorrect.


Cheers.....Sean, BTW-is Contact Adhesive the moniker for Selleys Customer Hotline?

Originally Posted by Clinton1

Incidentally if you know a way to put a length across end grain and accomodate movement i'd be glad to know.

A traditional way to cover up endgrain on tabletops is to use what are called 'breadboard ends'. The idea is in the pic. There might be articles on the details elsewhere in the forum or on google.