Thread: glue up question - both surfaces essential??

You'll certainly get a better bond if the glue covers both surfaces, but there are a couple of things you can do to avoid it drying before you've finished.
Firstly, you can put wax (any kind, the cheapest works as well as the dearest) wherever you're likely to get squeeze-out. Or, if you're using an oil finish, it may be possible to finish the parts before gluing up. That will work as well.
Also, you may be able to chill the wood and the glue before gluing up. This will slow down the setting, but don't chill the glue too much. Half an hour in the fridge should be enough.

Titebond 111 claim that has a long open time which may help you,what they mean by long open time in minutes I don't know.

I've only applied glue to one surface when joining timber. It saves on excessive glue waste and is not as messy and still joins perfectly. Never had a problem with loose joints.

When applying glue to a surface to be joined I glue one side and then rub the join it rub's out excess glue and gives total coverage to all surfaces you don't need a lot of glue most of what you apply is waste. I was always told as an apprentice the glue is to hold the timber together not apart. I rub joint all my segmented turning and they have stayed together over 15 years with no fail. Try to clean up your excess as you go to avoid glue going off before you can clean up, keep a wet rag with you while working.





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Regards Rod.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

When applying glue to a surface to be joined I glue one side and then rub the join it rub's out excess glue and gives total coverage to all surfaces you don't need a lot of glue most of what you apply is waste. I was always told as an apprentice the glue is to hold the timber together not apart. I rub joint all my segmented turning and they have stayed together over 15 years with no fail. Try to clean up your excess as you go to avoid glue going off before you can clean up, keep a wet rag with you while working.
Regards Rod.

this makes perfect sense to me
also what MBM888 says

you're applying glue to both surface but the application tool is one of the pieces of timber
i had been thinking along this line after a particularly hysterical glue up a couple of days ago -
the reason i pose the question is i have a similar job next week
will use the the rub join method as suggested

thanks

btw rod i am very impressed by your work

I was also wondering if it was necessary or not - I am beginning woodworking and the instructions for the PVA glue I bought says to only apply to one side and not the other; however every single guide I've read online directs me to apply to both... what gives?

With pva it can be done both ways. When I join edges together as in a table top I apply to both edges. If doing a flat surface to an edge then only on the edge. As long as when the surfaces come together there is enough glue to contact all of the joined surfaces. You should see a little squeese out all along the join when clamps are done up.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

With pva it can be done both ways. When I join edges together as in a table top I apply to both edges. If doing a flat surface to an edge then only on the edge. As long as when the surfaces come together there is enough glue to contact all of the joined surfaces. You should see a little squeese out all along the join when clamps are done up.
Regards
John

What do you do if for some reason a part of the join ends up not having enough glue and you only find out after it has dried? Do you use some sort of injection mechanism, maybe mixed with sawdust?

cheers

you won't really know unless the joint fails and then you will just re-glue
but if you can see a dry crack in the join just run a little CA [the runny stuff] in there

I use Titebond III because of it's longer open time. (I get up to 20 minutes)
I also only ever apply to one side. Never had a problem.

All the very best to everyone for the New Year.

I use a small artist's brush to coat both surfaces and think that if I've got some squeeze out then I've used enough glue.

Where I can't get at or don't want to deal with squeeze out I use blue painters tape and peel it off when the glue is half set, like on the inside of a box.

Cheers

Bryan

Originally Posted by Tung tied

All the very best to everyone for the New Year.

I use a small artist's brush to coat both surfaces and think that if I've got some squeeze out then I've used enough glue.

Where I can't get at or don't want to deal with squeeze out I use blue painters tape and peel it off when the glue is half set, like on the inside of a box.

Cheers

Bryan

I usually do exactly the same for small areas, but just coating one side liberally and using automotive masking tape to catch the squeeze-out. I don't press the tape too firmly into place, to avoid lifting the grain too much during removal.

The other day, when putting an oval drawer-pull on an oval drawer for a box, I came up with another method, for masking curved shapes.
First I printed the drawer-front and knob location, cut out the knob base outline ~ 0.5mm larger than the actual knob base, then squirted spray-adhesive on the back and carefully positioned it on the drawer front.
Besides masking from squeeze-out, the stuck-on pattern ensured that I couldn't get the knob in the wrong place or misaligned. Worked great. All I had to do was put glue on the surface and align the knob in the exact centre of the cutout.
Easy to tear off afterwards and any slight spray-adhesive residue wipes off easily with white spirits.