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Thread: Glueing after oiling?
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27th August 2012, 10:01 AM #1Frequent Learner
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Glueing after oiling?
Hi Folks,
Please excuse the amateurish question. I am putting together some stools and i am using dowel joints throughout most of the project, it goes without saying that i need strong joints given the nature of the work. My problem is that in the past I have had issues with glue squeezeout (even after clean up) ruining the timber around the joints so that when i come to oil it up, the oil wont penetrate. I like to use Cabots danish oil and the glue is usually standard PVA, although i am thinking of using titebond II for this one.
Do you think i could finish the pieces first with the Danish oil and then glue it? Or is there a risk of weak joints with this approach. Especially given that most of the joints will be endgrain to longgrain (with twin dowels).
I know i could sand the glue spill areas after it hardens but I would prefer to avoid this as the areas will be tight 90degree corners and I want to be sure there is no glue there. I've heard some people mention "paste wax", does carnuba fit this bill or is paste wax a specific product? If so where do you get it?
Thanks for you patience and help.
Cheers
Mat
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27th August 2012, 10:25 AM #2Member
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The idea is that if you do that, you are relying on the strength of the oil/lacquer's bond to the timber rather than the glue to the timber.
A more simple solution is to just cover the areas where you don't want the glue to spill with masking tape, or any tape for that matter. Then do your glue up and all the seepage will be sitting on the tape rather than your timber
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27th August 2012, 10:30 AM #3
Yes you can. Just use masking tapes to cover the joints.
Another way to minimise glue squeezeout is by applying glue in the mortise but no the tenon, or in your case apply glue to the dowel holes only. Apply just enough glue nice and even, and you should get a clean joint.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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12th September 2012, 05:06 PM #4Senior Member
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I just saw the earlier mention of paste wax. My understanding is this is just the old fashioned furniture or floor wax. That is what I use on my cast metal surfaces. It is better to get one without silicone in it or you may have problems with transfer to the wood, and subsequent finishing problems.
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12th September 2012, 06:13 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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What about doing all the coating of the Danish Oil before cutting, then glue after cutting and apply a final coat of oil. I am thinking of doing this for mitre joints on picture frames, but a bit worried that the oil may seep into the grain fibres too much, before cutting.
If you want a really great finish, have a look at this threadregards,
Dengy
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20th September 2012, 09:10 AM #6Frequent Learner
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Thanks for all the info folks. In retrospect i could have used the masking tape method fairly easily but i decided to just do it the old fashioned way and apply finish after gluing. The sanding the joint areas was a pain but i managed to get most of the excess glue cleaned up relatively well. there are still some areas that were just too hard to get to but you wouldn't notice them unless your nose was pressed up against the wood.
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23rd September 2012, 01:23 PM #7
You are right to think about finishing before assembly.
The thing you realy need to think about is keeping glue off the finished areas and finish of the ares to be glued.
And this may require you to plan ahead and consider how you construct.
the people who do this sort of thing regularly have some very clever ideas.
One thing you need to consider is which parts of the joint are actually doing the holding and require a glue bond and which parts are simply in compression or sheer and glue being no part of their function.
The sholders of a tennon for instance, realy require no glue, because they are in compression, it is the mating faces of the moretice and tennon that are doing the holding.
so finish on the faces of the morticed piece may make no difference at all...perhaps similar with your dowels.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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