Thread: Gluing embossed paper labels to timber

Do you have to have the embossing, or could you just fake the look of embossed paper by printing a texture on a flat label?

Alternatively, print the label information mirror reversed onto a sheet of paper with a laserprinter, put it face down on the wood, and slop some thinners onto the paper and the laserprinter toner will transfer to the wood.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Do you have to have the embossing, or could you just fake the look of embossed paper by printing a texture on a flat label?

Alternatively, print the label information mirror reversed onto a sheet of paper with a laserprinter, put it face down on the wood, and slop some thinners onto the paper and the laserprinter toner will transfer to the wood.

I don't really have to have the embossing, but it's already there. This is a vintage 1910 cigar-box label. I'm considering ironing the embossing almost out, so it's shape can still be seen.

Cyro Label.jpg


Looks like it's already on timber, but that's just part of the label. I plan to cut out only the oval bit and use that.
I could scan it, with some loss of quality, then find a colour laser printer, (mine's black only), but really want to use the original if I can. In a scan/reprint the gold would be lost.
I was hoping there'd be some trick for doing this. There must be something that I could wipe over the back with a card applicator or some other technique to fill the embossing and allow gluing afterwards.
Epoxy?

Edit: I just had a go at scanning it. Not real good - this is the best I could get.

scan.JPG


This is the actual embossing, from the rear: -

Embossing.JPG

Trying to fill the back would be a nightmare...you could try one of the thin self levelling epoxies sold for benchtops, but you'd want to test for compatibility first..and maybe do a few test runs to get the hang of it! Maybe even a dam wall of plasticine around the oval shape as a safety measure.

At least you'd be able to sand the back to both get it flat and prep it for gluing onto the timber!

What about size the stuff they put on carvings before applying gold or silver leaf.
I think it's a mixture of talk and glue. It should be able to flatten the back of your label with some very careful sanding.
Regards

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

At least you'd be able to sand the back to both get it flat and prep it for gluing onto the timber!

I wasn't thinking far enough ahead. You're right, if I fill it real thick, I can sand it flat like a piece of veneer. Thick enough and it could go in as an inlay.

Sounds good enough to try on one of the spare labels.

Originally Posted by A Duke

What about size the stuff they put on carvings before applying gold or silver leaf.
I think it's a mixture of talk and glue. It should be able to flatten the back of your label with some very careful sanding.
Regards

Another good idea, added to my list. I'll do some searching shortly on sizing. As I mentioned, I hadn't thought of making it thick then sanding back. Sounds pretty feasible if I'm careful, with W&D glued to a flat surface.

When I first ordered the label, I overlooked the fact that it would be embossed and was only expecting a quick glue-up with PVA.

Edit: I might have found the answer: -

With Loctite 3090 from Henkel, a new two-component instant adhesive is now available that not only offers the same high bond strength and fast cure, but can also fill gaps. Henkel has thus vastly broadened the application range of instant adhesives, offering an unmatched capability to fill gaps up to 5 mm wide. Loctite 3090 is suitable for almost all materials, including metals, most plastics, rubber and ceramics. Even porous substrates such as wood, paper and cork can be reliably bonded with it.

Gap-filling bonding within seconds - Loctite

I just need to find where I can buy some. Not mentioned at all on the Oz Loctite site.

Just found an eBay listing - AU$39.44 + AU$13.42 postage for 10 grams. Have to think about that.

The chalk & glue mix is called Gesso.
The guy you have to find (look in the wood carving forum) is 'copeau.'
He's in France. He just finished a replication (2X) of an old, broken mirror frame.
Wood carvings followed with gesso and a silver finish. 5X good.

North Shore Bearings, 12 Leonard St. Hornsby used to have a good range of Loctite stuff. Might be worth a phone call.

Why not try plaster of paris as a filler - it could be screeded across.

The most important thing to do is to seal the back of the paper so that it did not take up the watery mix.

The inherent value in that label is not only the age but the embossing.
Smash that flat and you might as well use a photograph for all it will be worth.

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

The chalk & glue mix is called Gesso.
The guy you have to find (look in the wood carving forum) is 'copeau.'
He's in France. He just finished a replication (2X) of an old, broken mirror frame.
Wood carvings followed with gesso and a silver finish. 5X good.

Thanks Robson. At the moment, it looks like a toss-up between an epoxy and gesso.
Got a bit more homework to do. Another option is extra-fine sawdust in glue, but I suspect that gesso will be better.
I'll chase up copeau.

I was leaning toward epoxy, but I need to do a test. I suspect that it will soak through the paper, making it semi-transparent like waxed paper. Gesso made from chalk and PVA is possibly the best bet. If I cover the back of the label well with a reasonably thick coat, wax-mask around the area I'm applying the label to, then press the label down well until I get plenty of squeeze-out so I know the embossing is filled, it should work.

Alex, I do like the sound of the Loctite 3090, but can't justify the cost, merely to glue a label on. It's very expensive regardless of where it's bought.
It could do what I mentioned above. I tried some araldite on paper and it's now see-through.
Still, I'll contact North Shore Bearings on Monday just in case.

Thanks all, for the replies, it's coming together.

Originally Posted by Black Ned

Why not try plaster of paris as a filler - it could be screeded across.

Yep. Actually, the gesso mix would be pretty similar.

The most important thing to do is to seal the back of the paper so that it did not take up the watery mix.

That's my thought with epoxy, too. I think that to use it successfully, I'd need to pre-seal the paper so the epoxy didn't soak right through.


I thought about polyurethane glue, got some Gorilla handy, but it would float the label as it expands, I think. Would definitely fill the embossing, though.

My other thought was thick CA. Could get pretty messy around the edges, too.

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

The inherent value in that label is not only the age but the embossing.
Smash that flat and you might as well use a photograph for all it will be worth.

Yes, I agree 100%. If I can, I do want to keep the embossing, particularly since it is a 100 year old vintage label.
I'll get some materials together and start testing on Monday.

I'm still weeks away from actually gluing the label on. Got heaps of work to do before that stage.