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2nd May 2005, 10:49 PM #31Originally Posted by hovo
And that's just the jobs I STARTED last week!
I'd list some of the other projects underway, but the World Wide Web isn't big enough to hold the list!!
P
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3rd May 2005, 12:11 PM #32
A jig and some measurements
Thanks to Midge, I was able to make a prototype of the rolling pin and a jig to help cut the blank at the appropriate angle. If anyone is interested, I took a few crude pics and added some measurements. Tried to convert everything to metric for you folks down under, but you better double check my figures to make sure.
fficeffice" /><O></O>
The rolling pin blank is 2 ¾” x 2 ¾” x 23” or 70mm x 70mm x 600mm
Each of the 4 laminates (inserts) are 2 ¾” x ¼” x 13 ½” or 70mm x 6mm x 350mm
This will produce ellipses that are 10 ½” or 270 mm long. (see pic #1)
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The jig allows you to cut halfway through the blank on the first pass, then flip everything over and complete the cut on the second pass. The same end of the blank always is placed against the jig for all four cuts. (See pic #2)<O></O>
<O></O>
Took some measurements of the jig. (See pic #3) In case you can't make them out:
A - 160mm or 6 1/4"
B - 115mm or 4 5/8"
C - 400mm or 15 3/4"
D - 50mm or 2"
<O></O>
Donnie
<O></O>Woodturners do it with their bevels rubbing
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3rd May 2005, 02:14 PM #33
Peter
I am truly astounded at the type of brain that can look at a piece like this and see how it is made. Apply to Mensa, they are looking for a new leader.
Even , who earns his living (in part at least) making turned things thought that it was just a clever bit of inlaying.
100 more greenies for you.Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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3rd May 2005, 03:09 PM #34Retired
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Originally Posted by Bob Willson
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3rd May 2005, 04:19 PM #35
it looks like we all tried it!
Generally I hate making pens, but I thought it would be a cheap easy way to test Midges theories.
This one is rosewood with Beech inlays.
As you can see, it's a bit cheap and nasty, but for a 10 minute job I guess it's alright.
Some points to note.
As you rotate the stock for each cut, always align from the same end.
Make sure that whatever timber you use as inlay is a constant thickness (I didn't have any timber veneers handy so free hand cut some on the band saw, and the minute differences in thickness show up noticeably on the loops).
Make sure the timber you remove is the same thickness as what you glue back in. If the inlaid piece is just a bit thicker, after you glue, your stock gets longer. With each 90 degree rotation your stock will continue to lengthen and this shows up as different length spirals (its easy to see 1st vs last cut).
Way to go Midge!
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3rd May 2005, 07:30 PM #36
Mighty impressive ianhockings! Yes midge certainly opened the floodgates and a few closed minds. We all could use a prod every now and then to look outside the square.
Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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3rd May 2005, 08:44 PM #37SENIOR MEMBER
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So who's going to be first to do more than four rings?
Dan
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3rd May 2005, 11:43 PM #38
Nice one ianhockings. As you say, any variation in the positioning of the veneers makes a big difference, especially when you turn down to a very small diameter like a pen.
You will have also noted how small the spirals get when you turn the smaller diameters. I know on my pen I used a large angle as midge suggested, and started taking a full length of the pen blank, but by the time I'd turned it down the spirals were less than half.
Dan - more than 4 circles - hmm start with a hexagon blank and use six, or an octogon blank and use eight - is that how it works? Perhaps one of our 3D image programers can advise rather than midge leading the way again. Having said that midge is probably already down in his shed making one.
All I can say is that midge you have provided me with some inspiration and deserve some greenies. I've already made a couple of perfume sprayers with the same pattern I liked it so much. Shame I still haven't got one with all the spirals the same size.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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4th May 2005, 12:32 AM #39
Getting things lined up...
With the jig for the table saw (previous post);
For the end of the blank closest to you, the ellipses automatically line up on the 4 sides. I made one (very thin) pass on the jointer on each of these pieces to smooth up the face for glueing. Also, one pass for the first far-end cut off as well. (Since my table saw does not have the capacity to cut to the total depth of the blank, I did not get a true surface for glueing, so I had to smooth things out with the jointer.))
On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th insert, I passed the far-end (cut side down) through the jointer until the fresh joint lined up with the previously cut adjacent side. Things lined up perfectly. (Draw a reference line around the circumference after the first slice..)
This works well for "rolling pin" size blanks ( with 1/4" (6mm) inserts but obviously not for pens.
DonnieWoodturners do it with their bevels rubbing
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4th May 2005, 06:33 AM #40Senior Member
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G,day
That design looks great what glue would one use to stick it together
as it would have to take a fair bit of stress -- particularly when quilted over the skull with it.
Cheers Arch
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4th May 2005, 06:59 PM #41
Arch,
I'd just use "yellow" PVA. It's reasonably waterproof (so you can wash up after the lacquer has worn off), and stronger than the timber that it's sticking together, so you don't need any better.
Other advantages are that it gives a little work time, but only needs an hour or so of clamping. If you are really game you can make the second cut then (I waited about two hours, and overnight before I turned it!).
Cheers,
P
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12th May 2005, 06:30 AM #42Senior Member
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Biting midge
I only just figured out how to find the post again as it wasn't on the main page anymore
Thanks for the reply Arch.
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16th May 2005, 11:59 PM #43
Midge and others
Tremendous results !
Such an easy solution, I'm still trying to figure out how you solved it.
Now look what you've done, I'm suitable inspired to have a go myself.
Looks like the july working with wood show will get one more lathe sale so I can get turning !!! Sure beats dvd cabinets.
I see an MC900 and some good chisels on the horizon. Would this a good starting point for a beginner ?
Cheers fellas, appreciate reading the posts.
Tony
PS Anyone know which of the cheaper bench grinders are induction, or are all of them ? I don't want anything competing with the circular saw in the triton .
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30th October 2005, 06:48 PM #44Originally Posted by tonysa
BUt as you say TREMENDOUS RESULTS!!!
Originally Posted by tonysa
Originally Posted by tonysa
Midge yer a bloody legend mateBelieve me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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24th January 2006, 10:04 AM #45
Easy way to ensure proper thickness
A few people have said that you have to make sure that the thickness of the wood insert is the same as the wood removed in the cut...
Now, I was thinking that trying to cut this perfectly with a circular saw or bandsaw might cause a few (minor) problems as the kerf may be slightly variable.
To overcome this, you could make two marks on you wood (maybe 50mm apart). Cut out the section you want removed, then place the two bits of wood back together and measure the distance between the two marks now. It will be 50mm minus the wood removed. This gives you an exact amount removed and with the careful use of a thicknesser you can make the fit perfect.
Maybe this is obvious, but I liked the idea when I thought of it...
Cam