Thread: Laminated Rolling Pin - How to glue up??

Thanks to Midge, I was able to make a prototype of the rolling pin and a jig to help cut the blank at the appropriate angle. If anyone is interested, I took a few crude pics and added some measurements. Tried to convert everything to metric for you folks down under, but you better double check my figures to make sure.

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The rolling pin blank is 2 ¾” x 2 ¾” x 23” or 70mm x 70mm x 600mm

Each of the 4 laminates (inserts) are 2 ¾” x ¼” x 13 ½” or 70mm x 6mm x 350mm

This will produce ellipses that are 10 ½” or 270 mm long. (see pic #1)

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The jig allows you to cut halfway through the blank on the first pass, then flip everything over and complete the cut on the second pass. The same end of the blank always is placed against the jig for all four cuts. (See pic #2)<O></O>

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Took some measurements of the jig. (See pic #3) In case you can't make them out:

A - 160mm or 6 1/4"

B - 115mm or 4 5/8"

C - 400mm or 15 3/4"

D - 50mm or 2"

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Donnie

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Peter
I am truly astounded at the type of brain that can look at a piece like this and see how it is made. Apply to Mensa, they are looking for a new leader.

Even , who earns his living (in part at least) making turned things thought that it was just a clever bit of inlaying.

100 more greenies for you.

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

Peter
I am truly astounded at the type of brain that can look at a piece like this and see how it is made. Apply to Mensa, they are looking for a new leader.

Even , who earns his living (in part at least) making turned things thought that it was just a clever bit of inlaying.
100 more greenies for you.

Yep! Midge already has some green ones from me for this piece of work.

Generally I hate making pens, but I thought it would be a cheap easy way to test Midges theories.

This one is rosewood with Beech inlays.

As you can see, it's a bit cheap and nasty, but for a 10 minute job I guess it's alright.

Some points to note.

As you rotate the stock for each cut, always align from the same end.
Make sure that whatever timber you use as inlay is a constant thickness (I didn't have any timber veneers handy so free hand cut some on the band saw, and the minute differences in thickness show up noticeably on the loops).

Make sure the timber you remove is the same thickness as what you glue back in. If the inlaid piece is just a bit thicker, after you glue, your stock gets longer. With each 90 degree rotation your stock will continue to lengthen and this shows up as different length spirals (its easy to see 1st vs last cut).

Way to go Midge!

Mighty impressive ianhockings! Yes midge certainly opened the floodgates and a few closed minds. We all could use a prod every now and then to look outside the square.

So who's going to be first to do more than four rings?

Nice one ianhockings. As you say, any variation in the positioning of the veneers makes a big difference, especially when you turn down to a very small diameter like a pen.

You will have also noted how small the spirals get when you turn the smaller diameters. I know on my pen I used a large angle as midge suggested, and started taking a full length of the pen blank, but by the time I'd turned it down the spirals were less than half.

Dan - more than 4 circles - hmm start with a hexagon blank and use six, or an octogon blank and use eight - is that how it works? Perhaps one of our 3D image programers can advise rather than midge leading the way again. Having said that midge is probably already down in his shed making one.

All I can say is that midge you have provided me with some inspiration and deserve some greenies. I've already made a couple of perfume sprayers with the same pattern I liked it so much. Shame I still haven't got one with all the spirals the same size.

With the jig for the table saw (previous post);

For the end of the blank closest to you, the ellipses automatically line up on the 4 sides. I made one (very thin) pass on the jointer on each of these pieces to smooth up the face for glueing. Also, one pass for the first far-end cut off as well. (Since my table saw does not have the capacity to cut to the total depth of the blank, I did not get a true surface for glueing, so I had to smooth things out with the jointer.))

On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th insert, I passed the far-end (cut side down) through the jointer until the fresh joint lined up with the previously cut adjacent side. Things lined up perfectly. (Draw a reference line around the circumference after the first slice..)

This works well for "rolling pin" size blanks ( with 1/4" (6mm) inserts but obviously not for pens.

Donnie

G,day

That design looks great what glue would one use to stick it together
as it would have to take a fair bit of stress -- particularly when quilted over the skull with it.

Cheers Arch

Arch,

I'd just use "yellow" PVA. It's reasonably waterproof (so you can wash up after the lacquer has worn off), and stronger than the timber that it's sticking together, so you don't need any better.

Other advantages are that it gives a little work time, but only needs an hour or so of clamping. If you are really game you can make the second cut then (I waited about two hours, and overnight before I turned it!).

Cheers,

P

Biting midge

I only just figured out how to find the post again as it wasn't on the main page anymore

Thanks for the reply Arch.

Midge and others

Tremendous results !
Such an easy solution, I'm still trying to figure out how you solved it.

Now look what you've done, I'm suitable inspired to have a go myself.
Looks like the july working with wood show will get one more lathe sale so I can get turning !!! Sure beats dvd cabinets.

I see an MC900 and some good chisels on the horizon. Would this a good starting point for a beginner ?


Cheers fellas, appreciate reading the posts.

Tony

PS Anyone know which of the cheaper bench grinders are induction, or are all of them ? I don't want anything competing with the circular saw in the triton .

Originally Posted by tonysa

Midge and others

Tremendous results !
Such an easy solution, I'm still trying to figure out how you solved it.

yep so am I... looks soooooooooo flamin easy but thats when I get confused most... like navigating kids all reckon I can get lost goin in a straight line whereas give me the bush and I never get lost

BUt as you say TREMENDOUS RESULTS!!!

Originally Posted by tonysa

Now look what you've done, I'm suitable inspired to have a go myself.
Looks like the july working with wood show will get one more lathe sale so I can get turning !!! Sure beats dvd cabinets.

I see an MC900 and some good chisels on the horizon. Would this a good starting point for a beginner ?

Sooooooo whaddidyerget???... I AM now officially hooked... love the lathe and Ive only ever twirled it once in my entire life... yesty!! :eek: but its a hoot!! and now Ive seen this... well... I can see many many out of the norm things happenin up in the humpyhoochy down the back

Originally Posted by tonysa

I don't want anything competing with the circular saw in the triton .

geddarealsawyermug!!

Midge yer a bloody legend mate

A few people have said that you have to make sure that the thickness of the wood insert is the same as the wood removed in the cut...

Now, I was thinking that trying to cut this perfectly with a circular saw or bandsaw might cause a few (minor) problems as the kerf may be slightly variable.

To overcome this, you could make two marks on you wood (maybe 50mm apart). Cut out the section you want removed, then place the two bits of wood back together and measure the distance between the two marks now. It will be 50mm minus the wood removed. This gives you an exact amount removed and with the careful use of a thicknesser you can make the fit perfect.

Maybe this is obvious, but I liked the idea when I thought of it...

Cam