Thread: Questions about Hide Glue

thanks for that,
I wonder how long before someone thinks about catskin glue

Hmmmmm! There's enough of the flea-ridden things around here to make a good 5 kg of glue. How about Roo Glue? Now there's a marketing oportunity for an enterprising person. I'll do you a deal on the name!

by gum that's a good idea

ta.

Here's another link I just noticed.
http://www.deller.com/newpage8.htm

Says you can make hide glue insoluable by adding aluminium sulfate. Where could you buy that do you think ?

sorry about all the questions...

I've been told by a supplier that the hide glue he supplies is a grade recommended for instrument building. But he doesn't know exactly what grade it is. Wondering what grade that might be. 251, 192 ? or something like that. I mean, if its good enough for instrument building would it be good enough for furniture ? or should I go for something stronger.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

Says you can make hide glue insoluable by adding aluminium sulfate. Where could you buy that do you think ?

Alum, from your local chemist.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

sorry about all the questions...

I've been told by a supplier that the hide glue he supplies is a grade recommended for instrument building. But he doesn't know exactly what grade it is. Wondering what grade that might be. 251, 192 ? or something like that. I mean, if its good enough for instrument building would it be good enough for furniture ? or should I go for something stronger.

If he 'doesn't know' what grade he sells, I would shop elsewhere. Someone in Australia must know what it is they're importing/selling. For all we know it could be low grade stuff imported from who knows where. Insist on a known quality.

The instrument makers may only be using it because it's all they can get their hands on too - it's no guarantee of quality.

thankyou kindly. appreciate the advice.

I have been stuck and used food grade gelatine from the supermarket. works well

this mob aren't cheap but.usually good quality

http://www.dick.biz/dick/category/di...224/detail.jsf

Jim

Something I decided to try this morning: I drilled a 1" hole in the lid (which I haven't been using), made up a new batch, checked the temperature with a meat thermometer I bought (65 degrees) and did a couple of glue ups. Then I came back a couple of hours later and removed the clamps and did another couple. There was very little skin on the glue and it seemed to not need any more water. The hole allows you to put the brush in without removing the lid. Tip I saw somewhere on one of those links.

I thought I would revive this thread to let people know that Stephen Shepherd has published his book on Hide Glue and that you can get it from Tools for Working Wood.

I got my copy last week and spent the train trips this week reading it. One tip that I got from Stephen was to put the glue in a glass jar and sit that in the glue pot - it keeps the glue much cleaner and means that you have a convenient storage container (with a tight-fitting lid) to put in the (beer) fridge so the glue can be reheated and reused.

There are heaps of interesting points that Stephen makes and even if you don't agree with everything he says, it is useful to have som much info on hide glue collected in one place.

PS I did a glue up this week using hide glue and it went very well, especially the use of the glass jar - the glue was much cleaner.