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Thread: sawdust and glue
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9th September 2012, 03:19 AM #1New Member
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sawdust and glue
ok looked around but cannot find an answer.....strange request...does anyone know what kind of glue would be good for gluing sawdust together??here is the catch though....I have tried some wood glues and they are not what I am looking for,the glue has to dry clear,the end product cannot be bendable I want the product coming out if possible as stiff as a board,sorry had to,any knowledge of this would be greatly appreciated.about the best way to describe it..if there are any one out there that knows this please share...
thanks and sanding end productLast edited by gord104; 9th September 2012 at 03:21 AM. Reason: forgot to add something
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9th September 2012 03:19 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th September 2012, 09:18 AM #2
Try using a moulding clear resin instead of glue
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9th September 2012, 10:27 AM #3New Member
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ok I will try that as well thanks...more ideas if someone has em
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9th September 2012, 03:26 PM #4
Animal glue mixed with sawdust is an old recipe for filling rot in furniture legs etc. It sets rock hard after a few days.
Any surplus can be moulded into very convincing looking dog turds and placed in strategic positions to cause all manner of alarm and hilarity..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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9th September 2012, 03:50 PM #5
Epoxy and sawdust, if you get the clear sort of epoxy.
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12th September 2012, 05:00 PM #6Senior Member
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I have patched small holes while turning with cyanoacrylate and sawdust, try the thicker "gap filling"
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12th September 2012, 06:38 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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When I did woodwork at school (many years ago) we were taught to use a mix of fine sawdust and Aquadhere wood glue to fill knot holes etc. Worked OK, but was quite visible as a filled in knot hole .
Epoxy would be better IMHO if you can colour it (before or after) satisfactorily.
My sister does antique furniture restoration and that's what they were taught at TAFE.
Done correctly it is an invisible repair (holes , busted edges etc).
Rob
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13th September 2012, 08:21 AM #8
clear epoxy
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13th September 2012, 08:54 AM #9New Member
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ok I will try epoxy..there are a couple of other factors that go with this..I am not trying to fill a hole I am trying to make a approx. 12x12 inch thick sort of boards this way....crazy yes..but to go ahead with what I am doing I need to figure this out..been working alot so will try epoxy this weekend and post the results
thanks guysLast edited by gord104; 13th September 2012 at 08:59 AM. Reason: jumped the gun with the enter key...sigh
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25th September 2012, 11:32 AM #10
So ya reinventing the wheel and making chipboard
UM WHY.
And doing so in sabs that big you are going to run into all sorts of problems because you probaly wont have the facilities to mould under pressure, and finding a resin that is stable in that size slab will be interesting.
OH BTW...Adquahere ( PVA) and sawdust is one of the worst wood fillers there is.
The idea of glue and sawdust worked well with hide glue, but it simply does not translate well with PVA that replaced it.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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27th September 2012, 06:09 PM #11
Good Morning gord104
Over the years I have had excellent results with epoxy and saw-dust or sander-dust. In fact, whenever I am sawing or sanding some particular good timber I save the dust - a jar for each type, course & fine. My preferred epoxy is WEST System slow hardening - a good Canadian product - or the local fibreglass shops generic copy thereof. You will probably also need a mold release agent, if you are casting your "boards".
In mixing such large quantities of epoxy, heat build up may be quite a problem - it may get out of control - so heed the safety instructions very carefully.
The best book on epoxy usage - boat specific - is "The Gourgeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST System." published in Canada and probably in your local library.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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27th September 2012, 06:20 PM #12
Mmmmm my bible.......
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...k%20061205.pdf
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27th September 2012, 06:26 PM #13
In actual chip board they use resorsinol. That would prolly work.
anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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27th September 2012, 11:38 PM #14
Putting sawdust, chips or shavings in epoxy or another suitable resin may be a good thing for filling smallish holes up to bigish cavities in a workpiece.
But it seems the OP is talking about laying up slabs of the stuff, that is where it starts to get hard.
All the manufactured boards such as plywood, chipboard, OSB board and masonite have relativly low amounts of resin compared to timber material and all are laid up and cured under pressure.
Likewise many of the slab plastics and laid up and cured under pressure.
As soo as you start pouring big slabs of mix & pour resins, there are all sorts of problems.
We realy need to know what he is trying to achieve.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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30th September 2012, 01:47 AM #15
This isn't new technology. The relatively high ratio of epoxy to sawdust mixture is fairly commonly used in boat building to cast plinths in-situe for winch bases, jammer bases, cleat bases, etc. There must be sufficient epoxy that one is absolutely sure that the sawdust is fully wet through throughout the casting. The finished product is sort of like a semi translucent bakelite; when cured it can be filed, sanded and painted. Gord104 just wants to take the process one step further.
But for large casting heat build up and accelerated setting is an issue - hence my safety warnings.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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