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14th May 2012, 11:24 AM #1The Russel Coyte of Woodworking
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Techniglue for a home made Hammer?
Hi All
Not sure if anyone spotted the hammer in the latest addition of Woodworking (I think!), this guy in the US took a 3/4 brass pipe fitting he picked up from his plumbing supply shop and he cut or turned some heads and a handle. I thought it would make a really novel gift for a friend of mine. I also reckon I will make myself one as it would make a great hammer for tapping dovetails together etc
So I whipped up the stock for the heads, cut the tennons as well as the handle on the weekend. The article says to cut a v groove in the threads so they act as a dye so when the tennon is inserted it cuts the thread into the wood therefore negating the need to glue the heads in if you need to replace them just unscrew them and replace.
All terrific in theory but in practice I found the threads to fine as well as the wood I am using too hard so after testing it out the threads broke and the heads of the hammer became loose.
So I have decided to glue them in as well as the handle.
I posted some time ago if gluing wood to brass would work and I was told to wash the contact surface with soapy water & rinse then use acetone to ensure a totally clean mating surface!? There will be heaps of gaps and areas for the epoxy to grab on to as it will squish into the threads....it should work.
Will Techniglue do the job?
Any advice would be terrific!
Cheers
Milo
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14th May 2012 11:24 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th May 2012, 08:16 PM #2Senior Member
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A noel idea Milo,
I thick techniglue would work just fine, it is designed to fill voids (plenty in the thread pattern). If you are concerned at all had you thought of running a dowel from face to face through the brass section?
Shippers
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14th May 2012, 08:18 PM #3Senior Member
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Man i must be tired,
Meant to be novel also think not thick
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14th May 2012, 10:00 PM #4The Russel Coyte of Woodworking
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Thanks shippers
I did think of punching a dowel through but honestly I don't think I will need to as this hammer is not going to get punished, it is going to be used for tapping dovetails together and moderate tapping! I was even thinking of glueing on some leather to the faces.
Yeah the techniglue gel will do the job!
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15th May 2012, 04:19 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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HA! Milo, I was going to suggest leather facing just as I read your recent post. I'd suggest also upsetting the front face corners. Tapping in a dowel peg and you accidentally hit an exposed timber face= it's going to look like a bad chip-carving.
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15th May 2012, 09:23 AM #6
Good looking hammer. Might make one myself.
If you are going to put leather faces on, you could put a long countersunk screw in from one end and cover it with the leather.
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15th May 2012, 10:45 AM #7The Russel Coyte of Woodworking
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Mmmmm thats an interesting idea......so you meen drilling a hole in the one face, put a long screw right through the head into the back of the other head hence pulling the two faces together when tightening???
Wouldn't the heads loosen up over time with the banging?
Do you think I should keep the heads square or round them over at the sander?
I will be chamfering the edges of the heads!
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15th May 2012, 12:51 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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If this is to be a tap-tap-tap hammer and not one to wail the bejeezlies out of for "bashworthyness." why bother with glue? Why bother making the heads so absolutley snug to the metal? I'd be happy when it wore down from use that I had to give the heads a 1/4 turn to tighten them up.
I'm just one of those jerks who finds it hard to believe that really pretty tools can hide my level of skill.
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15th May 2012, 03:01 PM #9The Russel Coyte of Woodworking
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Robo
I know where you are coming from but here is the issue. I took a small jewelers v file and cut three grooves into the brass threads. The threads are very fine and the wood I am using is very hard, this presents a combination problem that as soon as the tennon catches the thread and starts cutting (all good in theory) but it "chews" out the wood to the point that the said thread that is cut is so fine that it doesn't really bite like you would expect from say a 3/4 lead pipe going into this brass fitting (I hope that makes sense!). A few decent tap taps and one of the threads failed, with the head coming loose. Hence, the epoxy idea!
This idea I think would work better with larger/deepr threads and maybe softer wood?
I think it will take an awfull long time to wear these heads down and by that time I would just make the whole damn hammer again from a new fitting or just buy another hammer aka a Veritas hammer similair to this one.
The long screw through the one head into the other pulling both tight might have some merrits....?
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15th May 2012, 06:40 PM #10
I probably wouldn't use an epoxy - I think a liberal dob or seven of construction adhesive or even silicone will do the 'hold in place' thing, while still allowing for a bit of give for seasonal variation in the wood's moisture content.
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16th May 2012, 06:32 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Ah. "I see," said the blind carpenter, as he picked up his hammer and saw.
Splinter suggests RTV silicone. That would work for me. I think that this tool is going to turn out to be a real pleasure to use.
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20th May 2012, 12:15 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Have you thought of using "T" nuts flush fitted to the 2 faces of the pads and a piece of threaded rod between the 2.
This should work fine especially if covered with leather.
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21st May 2012, 10:16 AM #13
Mmmmm......patents anyone?
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21st May 2012, 02:56 PM #14The Russel Coyte of Woodworking
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Patents! ahahah! Thats what my mother in law said and I just laughed at her!
I made another head out of pine over the weekend, I left just enough meat so that the thread could cut into the wood. The softer wood definatley bitt more than the harder stuff but again after a few test taps the threads failed again!! So I guess using some type of glue is the go.
Milo
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