Thread: Will thin CA hurt an old Titebond (Original) joint?

Not important now - it's done.

In similar situations I have used Chair Doctor glue. It is thin and runs readily into cracks, and the needle applicator makes it easy to use.

Not sure how well it sticks to other glue, but I have not had a bad reaction with PVA and it holds timber very well. Recently I split a piece of timber on one side of a dowell. Inserted a fine needle, injected, and the glue ran the full length of the crack. After clamping and drying, it was good and solid. It is made to repair existing joints, so I doubt the chemistry is an issue.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

In similar situations I have used Chair Doctor glue. It is thin and runs readily into cracks, and the needle applicator makes it easy to use.

Not sure how well it sticks to other glue, but I have not had a bad reaction with PVA and it holds timber very well. Recently I split a piece of timber on one side of a dowell. Inserted a fine needle, injected, and the glue ran the full length of the crack. After clamping and drying, it was good and solid. It is made to repair existing joints, so I doubt the chemistry is an issue.

Thanks, John. Where I used it, there was no old glue, so there shouldn't be any worries. Didn't really expect a chemical problem either, but it never hurts to ask.
(This was a 1/4" dowel on a scale model axle - not a high load joint.)
Done and gone to a new home now.

Never heard of 'Chair Doctor' glue before, either. Looks pretty good for this type of repair, since it swells the wood before/during bonding. I see that Carbatec stocks it. I'll have to get some for similar repairs in the future. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

... Steve

Steve,

Only used it three or four times, but am very happy with it so far. When you need it, it is very handy. I especially like its thin viscosity, so it runs easily into cracks etc, and the needle applicator works well.

On one job I bored a tiny hole to get into the crack properly with the needle. Once injected, the glue seeped out of both ends of the crack before I clamped it. A tiny dab of plastic wood and the hole was invisible once the job was lacquered.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

Steve,

Only used it three or four times, but am very happy with it so far. When you need it, it is very handy. I especially like its thin viscosity, so it runs easily into cracks etc, and the needle applicator works well.

On one job I bored a tiny hole to get into the crack properly with the needle. Once injected, the glue seeped out of both ends of the crack before I clamped it. A tiny dab of plastic wood and the hole was invisible once the job was lacquered.

Sounds perfect. On my shopping list for those odd repair jobs. I like the idea of boring a tiny hole, too, for the awkward ones. Got drill bits down to 0.5mm suited to the purpose. Thanks again.
(Now I'll have Selleys PVA, Titebond Original, Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, Gorilla polyurethane glue, thin, medium and thick Hot Stuff CA, SuperGlue, Selleys Quik Grip contact adhesive, Tarzan's Grip and Chair Doctor. Only need Titebond III, I think, and I'll have all that I need.)

I have diluted Titebond with an equal amount of water and used a syringe to inject it into cracks and splits and it seems to hold OK.
I have always clamped it while drying.

Originally Posted by Chesand

I have diluted Titebond with an equal amount of water and used a syringe to inject it into cracks and splits and it seems to hold OK.
I have always clamped it while drying.

I've diluted PVA a couple of times myself, in the past, but wasn't sure about it's strength. For most fine cracks, I use CA, wicked into the crack, but for joint repairs, it sounds like it's hard to go past 'Chair Doctor'.

I'm sure I read somewhere on this forum that dilution of PVA glue with 5% water was fine; that 10% water was maximum before strength began to suffer ... but I can't find that post. Can anyone point me to a reference to acceptable dilution levels?

Originally Posted by John Samuel

I'm sure I read somewhere on this forum that dilution of PVA glue with 5% water was fine; that 10% water was maximum before strength began to suffer ... but I can't find that post. Can anyone point me to a reference to acceptable dilution levels?

I just did a quick WWF and Google search too, but couldn't find anything useful. Lots of people dilute it more than 50% for decoupage, but this would be too thin for timber.

Originally Posted by Hermit

I've diluted PVA a couple of times myself, in the past, but wasn't sure about it's strength. For most fine cracks, I use CA, wicked into the crack, but for joint repairs, it sounds like it's hard to go past 'Chair Doctor'.

I have also used Chair Doctor. It was when I found that it had gone off that I tried diluted Titebond as I needed it there and then.

I'm sure there would be something published, somewhere, on safe PVA dilution rates for timber, but finding it.....