Thread: UBeauts Hard Shellac & Epoxy Glue????

What no answers yet I must be the only slacker at home today.

The real reason for this post is just to mention I will be away for a few days so will not be around to see or respond to the wonderful answers/comments to my question. I would hate for someone to think I was ungrateful for their post because I haven't acknowledged it in any way. As the pantene add says "it may not happen overnight but it will happen"

till I get back
Andrew

Hi Andrew

Try emailing neil , he usually gets back to you asap unless he's super busy

Cheers
Glenn

Neil is away at the moment.

He will get back to you as soon as he can.

Hi Andrew
Even if it does stick (and I'm sure it will although I'm not about to try), the strength of the bond will be the strength of the bond between the shellac and wood.
You really must mask off the gluing surfaces.
If tape does not release cleanly, just wipe the back of the tape with a rag damp with turps and wait a while, maybe 10 minutes, and the tape will usually peel easily. Enough of the solvent gets through the tape to reactivate the adhesive.
I only ever use plain old masking tape and, as a matter of course, just wipe it all with the turps before I start the peeling off..

G'day Andrew - Shouldn't think there'd be a problem. But personally I wouldn't be using hard Shellac on the bed, I'd be more inclined to just use the Dewaxed White or regular shellac, but that's your preference. Also why epoxy glue? Seems like a whole heap of expensive overkill to me, specially if you ever want to move the bed. All the beds I've ever made and there've been quite a few, were either fully screwed (fastened) with cross dowels (timber or metal see pic below) or had the head and foot PVA'd and the rails and the rest screwed. Mostly queen and king size, never had one come adrift, squeak or wobble yet.

Cheers - Neil

Would like to know from the pro's the best recommended PVA glue

Originally Posted by fortheloveowood

Would like to know from the pro's the best recommended PVA glue

Hi fortheloveofwood

Titebond would be my choice . never let me down yet and is god interior and exterior

Cheers
Glenn

Thanks Madcraft, I will look for that one, does it sand back well?

Originally Posted by fortheloveowood

Thanks Madcraft, I will look for that one, does it sand back well?

Hi Fortheloveowood
Never had trouble with sanding and TB doesn't seem to react to stains {wrong shades } , can't comment on Varnish as I don't { closest would be Danish and no probs }

the only thing I would worry about was letting it go right off before getting it wet as it will breakdown in water when still tacky but not when fully dry and off

Cheers
Glenn

Originally Posted by ubeaut

... Also why epoxy glue? Seems like a whole heap of expensive overkill to me, ...

Cheers - Neil

Thanks for the answer Niel..

The glue is because I am attaching beads (if that is the term) running along the top and bottom of the side and end rails and i have some epoxy that needs using. I am using the maxilock system to join rails (why because they were available) to the head and foot. As to why the hard shellac I have used it before and liked the finish so I just thought I would keep using what i know, Next project i'll try something else. It's a king bed and will need to be moved so it will be able to be knocked down and pieced together.

Thanks for the comments people

Andrew

Wherever there's likely to be squeeze out I apply a thin coat of wax - doesn't matter what kind as long as it doesn't have silicon. glue won't stick to it, and it can be cleaned up with white spirits. Masking tape is a PITA.

Thanks Alex

I've just found that out about the tape.

Have some parrafin wax somewhere.. I'll try that on the next glue up if I can find it.

Cheers Andrew