Thread: Ungluing Hot Melt Glue

Some of you mentioned using a better quality of hot glue - this I could really use - could you post a brand and a where to get? (Sydney Region)

with thanks

Originally Posted by Markw

Some of you mentioned using a better quality of hot glue - this I could really use - could you post a brand and a where to get? (Sydney Region)

with thanks

I get mine here http://www.timbecon.com.au/productse...=hot+melt+glue

Tikki & Major - I use mine for including finishing, so not keen in the microwave or thinners as it may affect the finish (usually wax).

Jack - I tired copper wire, but the only wire that fitted the gap was so thin it melted before the glue did. Still a good idea for thick gaps.

Bodgy - yes the shed gets hot up here too, but not enough to make this stuff give way.

Thanks to all those who posted.

While we're on the topic of hotmelt, I have a query ...

I'm working on a piece of myrtle burl as a bowl. Started with it rough turned, when dry I returned the outside and continued without thinking, down to the foot (ie. no recess in it for remounting nor enough width in the foot itself for gripping and then cleaning it up later).

The foot is about 50mm in diameter. No room for putting in a recess now.

I'm wondering whether to hotmelt glue the foot to a carrier in order to turn the inside. Would it be strong enough to hold? The bowl is about 185mm in diameter.

I could alternatively turn a groove above the foot on the outside but that would mean returning the bowl bottom after doing the inside, mounted on Cole jaws, and I'm not confident about maintaining a good line on the outside profile if this option is followed.

What do you think?

50mm foot maybe a bit small, but you could give it a try. Make sure you have the glue all over and very hot to ensure it sticks for the full area.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Tikki & Major - thinners - as it may affect the finish (usually wax).

dai,

Thinners is cheap a chips, WILL NOT affect the finish as HMG doesn't penetrate the surface very much. It also dries without any perceptible residue so no problems.

Here's a tip;

Suck it & see

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

tip; Suck it & see

Good point, shall do.

Originally Posted by rsser

...snip..
The foot is about 50mm in diameter. No room for putting in a recess now.

I'm wondering whether to hotmelt glue the foot to a carrier in order to turn the inside. Would it be strong enough to hold? The bowl is about 185mm in diameter.

I....snip...What do you think?

I regularly turn items up to 300mm dia (plates) and deeper stuff 150mm dia with a sacrificial piece of 50X25mm pine for the worm screw fixing.

The total area bonded with HMG is rarely more than your 50mm dia. so as has been said as long as it is whole area I would say you will be OK.

Make sure it is Hot so that joint thickness is as thin as possible and even.

On one project I saw where someone was trying to recover a damage goblet shape, they bonded two side strips of 20mm square stock between the base block and the outer top edge to reduce the chatter and stiffen the piece whilst they worked inside.

Originally Posted by rsser

...rough turned, when dry I returned the outside and continued without thinking, down to the foot (ie. no recess in it for remounting nor enough width in the foot itself for gripping and then cleaning it up later)....What do you think?

Can you make a jam fit chuck from scrap to hold it from the bottom while you finish the top?

Thanks CHJ, the inside of the bottom of the foot is concave, so I guess I'd need a carefully matched carrier to ensure a thin glue layer.

And thanks Cliff. From the base the outside of the foot curves inwards so jamming ain't an option unless I change the shape, which I don't want to do. Will lose the nice line that I thoughtlessly turned while in the groove. But your suggestion reminds me that there's an unused set of Acetyl jaws sitting on the shelf ... might be an option.

Originally Posted by rsser

Thanks CHJ, the inside of the bottom of the foot is concave, so I guess I'd need a carefully matched carrier to ensure a thin glue layer.

Not too critical in that case rrser, as the glue edges will be thin, it's just a case of reducing the amount of flex in the adhesive. If it is too thick then even a small amount of flex gets magnified the further out from the fixing you are. Never had a problem when used on virgin turning but there may be enough when trying to rework to be significant, you are going to have to contend with the wood movement which is bad enough hence why I suggested additional supports, these may be helpful regardless of your prime holding method.

Remember I have only been at this 10 months or so but have used lots of HMG