Thread: Veneering using Titebond

Hi Pete

Stick with the Hide Glue me thinks its worked famously for 1000s of years

David MArks from Woodworks likes to use UniBond 800

Check out his approach here:

Woodworking Technique: Gluing Veneer on Compound Curve - YouTube

Where o where you find Unibond 800 I dont know and its caretainly a less friendly Glue when you consider its

more toxic Nature

Regards

Lou

I've successfully used SikaBond, very similar to Titebond 2, for veneering, but you must use platens, cauls and clamps for a satisfactory result. I found best results by rolling the glue thinly on both the veneer and the substrate. A very thin but complete cover stops the media sliding around on one another and squeeze out is virtually non existent. The other option may be to let the glue go off and then activate it with a hot iron. I haven't tried this, but I suspect it would work.

I only use hide glue (as well as fish glue)on antique restoration projects as it is has limitations. Try using Titebonds Cold Press Veneer glue. Its really easy to use and not as messy as hide glue.

Thanks to all for the advice. I thought this post had slipped under the radar so I decided to go with hide glue and bought some Liberon Pearl for the project. As I said in the original post, I did a test piece with Titebond on mdf ground. I applied with a roller to get an even thin coating and sandwiched the piece between two mdf platens and clamped with cauls. The piece still came out with ridges in the veneer and of course, no way to reverse/rectify it as I could have done with hide glue.
Pete