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15th November 2008, 09:55 AM #1
after a good water activated glue.
Where can you buy Gorilla glue ? What other polyurethane glues are there available here.
Particularily after a water activated one.
ta.
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15th November 2008 09:55 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th November 2008, 10:26 AM #2
Hi AT, Richard at River Gum Timbers on the Sunshine Coast uses and sells Purbond a water based Poly glue. He uses it for veneering, I have some and have tried it on some veneer, it has a shelf life of 12 months after opening.
Cheers
BarryIf it walks like a duck, talks like a duck and looks like a duck then it's a friggin duck.
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15th November 2008, 10:34 AM #3
Lets see, off the top of me head for now
Titebond® Polyurethane
AV515 polyurethane adhesiveCheers
DJ
ADMIN
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15th November 2008, 10:55 AM #4Jim
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I've used one in the UK called Cascamite. It came as a powder in a tin and you activated it by adding water. Don't know if it's still available.
Jim
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15th November 2008, 10:56 AM #5
and theres a selleys one too - Durabond? so you should be able to get it at any hardware store
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15th November 2008, 11:20 AM #6
This is a copy of an email just sent to Selleys about their Duraboind glue which from my experience is a crap product. It represents my honest opinion and is not intended to be any other persons view.
"I just spent the last couple of days making a fancy Jarrah Screen Door.
I used the selleys crap Durabond Urethane Glue.
Tacking the squiggly bits on (with brads & expoxy) the stiles came away from the rails. The joints had been allowed to harden for 48 hours before fitting the trims. Given minimal force was used tacking the trims on I conclude that the rotten urethane glue is inadequate for a door swinging in the breeze or closing with a door closer.
Needless to say I'm very peed off with urethane glue.
Now I know why its unpopular on some woodwork forums.
Now I have to figure out how to fix the stinking door without starting all over from scratch. Though its quite possible the project is completly ruined and fit only for the woodheap.
What are Selleys going to do about their inferior product that is going to create much unnecessary work for me.
Ignore this complaint at your legal peril
__________________
Regards
Bob Thomas
ps the contact form on your website sucks, try and use it yourself and you will see what I mean"
I expect they will get the message
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15th November 2008, 06:42 PM #7
thanks for the ideas.
Might just buy the tightbond. 30 bucks a little bottle seems a bit much though .anyway.
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15th November 2008, 07:09 PM #8
Bob, I'm interested in how you did the glue up and what type of joints you're using, did you give the gluing surface a wipe with a damp rag before gluing as per their instructions? I've done timber gates with the stuff and M&T joints in exposed positions for I guess close to 5 years and had no issues. I wonder what happened with yours
Cheers
Michaelmemento mori
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15th November 2008, 07:14 PM #9Senior Member
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I have had issues with it as well, it is fast and weather proof, but
does not like shock loads, I do not use it any more. It must be clamped
tightly.
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15th November 2008, 07:27 PM #10
KD jarrah, damped before gluing dowel joints, dowels also damped
Kept overnight in clamps.
Wouldn't handle the shock of nailing brads in and let go.
I won't use the rubbish again, I don't like trouble with customers
Might get a litre or so of West systems epoxy.
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