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16th October 2010, 01:03 PM #1New Member
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100mm roundover... What router bit?
Hi guys!
I'm a cabinetmaker by trade and I deal alot with car stereo installs; however.. first major challenge has just rocked up at my doorstep.
A friend of mine wants to build 4 x boxes for home audio gear. For the application, he wants 50mm thickness on the MDF, so I'm using 2 x 25mm MR MDF laminated together for the build.
Now... he wants a 100mm roundover on all corners/edges of the box... my question, who manufacturers router bits that could do that kind of edge profile?
CheersLast edited by Tiger Audio; 16th October 2010 at 01:03 PM. Reason: typo
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16th October 2010 01:03 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th October 2010, 01:44 PM #2
I hope you mean 10mm radius roundover....??????
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16th October 2010, 02:09 PM #3New Member
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16th October 2010, 02:17 PM #4
Eeeeek......if anyone makes a bit that size (which I doubt), I wouldn't want to be in the same room when its running.
That kind of radius would normally be done on a huge spindle moulder or (manually) on a disk sander.
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16th October 2010, 02:23 PM #5
I have just bought one of these, 1/2 x 2" Round Rounding Over Router Bit Tool Dual Flute - eBay, Equipment, Machinery, Woodworking, Industrial. (end time 06-Nov-10 11:18:02 AEDST) pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5adcab8630 .......may I suggest you get similar and round the top edge first then the bottom! (two stages) I dont think you would be able to handhold a router bit that size!
G'day I'm Dave!
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16th October 2010, 02:33 PM #6New Member
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Yeah I should've cleared that up... no ay am I expecting a plunge router to have a bit that big. (Massive bloody router, if that's the case! haha)
I'm think that might be the way to go and just be VERY pedantic about sanding it.
Mr. Brush... I was initally thinking the same as you... perhaps a spindle moulder job... but I wasn't 100%; as I don't work with them everyday, so I can't really comment on them.
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16th October 2010, 05:04 PM #7
when I do a top in this fashion I always do it on a good router bench, this keeps the timber at a uniform distance for both faces!
G'day I'm Dave!
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16th October 2010, 09:27 PM #8
Glue up four pieces of the cross section to approximately final shape, longer than needed, with end diaphragms to reach the center of curvature. Dimple each end diaphragm at slightly more than 4" radius. Place it in "bookends" with dead centers. Connect the bookends to each other, as explained in the third paragraph here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/car...e-horse-57412/
Adjust the cutter height for 100mm radius. Run the whole affair along a router table, rotating the workpiece slightly for each pass, limiting the rotation to 90 degrees. A jointer may be needed to achieve perfect tangency of the flat portions. Sand to final contour.
Miter cut the ends, wasting the end diaphragms, for assembly. Bob's your uncle.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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