Thread: Advice on buying my first router.

How will it be used? Hand held or in a router table? If you are going to use it hand held consider the weight. Some weigh over 6kg which could cause problems in controlling the machine, particularly if you are using it on a narrow surface or a vertical face.
Do you want a 1/4" or 1/2" collet. 1/2" is generally a bigger machine but it will allow you to use a bigger variety of bits.
Also think if you want to have dust extraction just to make working conditions better.

I bought a router about 20 years ago and am looking at buying another. (A Bosch 1/4".) Router only sees the occasional use and I have about a dozen bits. All my work is hand held although I have used a router table so know the advantages.

A decent depth stop is useful, but being able to finely adjust it could be a plus. Tools with a soft start are better as they will "kickback" as they come up to speed.

Some sort of fence guide is probably a must for any groove work.

Hope all this helps as I am looking for suggestions as to what to buy.
The Festool 1010 was one thought but it has poor viability of the bit which is a disadvantage. The Makita RP2301FC was suggested to me, but at 6.1 kg is too heavy. I am thinking of a DeWalt DW621 as it seems to tick all the boxes for me but would like to know what others think.

The biggest problem is the choice. Good luck choosing.

Thanks for the information.
It will be hand held as I have no room for a router table.

I expect most jobs would be outside but dust filter would still be advantage.

I have some De Walt equipment and been very happy with it so might start looking there.
Is there much of a weight difference between the 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch machines.

1/2" being bigger are generally heavier than 1/4". That said a lift test in the store will give you an idea of the weight and you just need to think what it will be like on the job.

For any edge work over half the router will be over the edge and will need to be supported.

Due to the clutter on my workbench I do not enjoy cleaning the dust after using any tool in the workshop. Generally I will use it in the garage if I can.
Some jobs are indoors, eg mortising a lock where the door is difficult (or too lazy) to take off its hinges.

Not sure if DeWalt have a 1/4". This is the one I am looking at. Dewalt Plunge Router. #DW621
I need to check the size of the dust extraction port to see how suitable it is with my gear.

Here's a page on basic router operation and safety that you might find of use.

Routing is like most other woodworking skills - you can do it with cheap tools, you can do it with expensive tools - you get better at it the more you do. However, although expensive tools make the whole experience much better, they won't make the user any more skilled. That said, a main element of the equation is that good quality tools win in the end because if you buy them wisely, you'll rarely, if ever, need to replace them.

The most common type of router in the UK and Australia is a plunge router. In North America, fixed base routers are more prevalent, but - as a beginner - I'd avoid them altogether as they are much less versatile and "beginner-friendly."

Plunge routers come in a variety of designs, power ranges and features. A very basic router will plunge, have a lock to fix the depth of cut once reached, be a single-speed machine and have an on/off switch (or trigger) that will probably need holding down to keep the motor running. For hand-held use only, this is OK, but if you may want to use it inverted (in a table, so that you can run the wood along the cutter, rather than run the cutter along the wood), then you will need to overcome the "safety" trigger.

Single-speed routers can only safely accommodate the smaller bits (cutters) and should not even be considered for any of the larger bits available, IMO. Routers hold their bits via a collet system, the most common sizes being ½" and ¼" collets. Some routers have an ½" collet with an insert sleeve to reduce it to a ¼" capability. This can be OK, but dedicated collets for each size are much more preferable. Collets are tightend in place with a wrench, or a pair of wrenches, depending on the router. Some have a built-in spindle lock so that only one wrench is required.

Bits with ¼" shafts are much less robust due to their smaller mass and the the bits with ½" shafts are to be preferred. Routers are available with 6mm, 8mm and/or 12mm collets also, but any of these sizes may tend to reduce bit availability and choice. When it comes to bits, my advice would be to buy fewer better-quality bits that you need and will use, rather than to buy a set of bits that will - most likely - have been produced as cheaply as possible and quite a few will never be used because of their profile.

CMT and Wealden (UK) bits are my personal favourites, but there are many other good brands to choose from. To start with, I'd suggest a straight cutter around 25mm cutting length, ¼" and ½" round-over bits and a chamfer bit. Once you've seen a few bits on-line, or in a catalogue, you'l swiftly figure out what they produce from their side view.

Router motor power is either expressed in Watts or HP. The smallest general-purpose machine I would look at would be of 1KW (1,000W or about 1⅓HP). I would always go for one with a ½" collet over any other size, because that's the most profuse bit size. I would ask if a ¼" collet was available for the router - preferably it would come with both - but that's not a "deffo" requirement at an early stage. For heavier hand-held use, I would look at a 2HP router and for inverted (table-mounted) use, a 3HP machine.

Variable speed, however, would always be right at the top of my spec list, as it not only extends the range of bits you can handle, it can also help in preventing cutter burn will small bits.

Soft start is not at all essential, just more comfortable and pleasant, but I go for it every time in the larger HP machines.

Weight and balance are both inportant, so it is very beneficial if you can get your hands on a few makes and sizes to see how they feel. Like cameras or binoculars, there's often little to choose between brand specs, but the feel of one in your hand can be much more preferable than another for aesthetic or cosmetic reasons alone. If you only intend to use a router hand-held, weight and balance can form a significant part of the decision-making process, so please don't get one by post to start with unless there really is no other way. Weight is not necessarily something to be avoided, as good-quality routers can be heavier than cheaper ones, useful because they are more stable in some cases.

Dust extraction (using a vacuum device) is another factor, albeit an often-forgotten one. There are some routers that have their dust extraction ports at the top end of one of their plunge arms. I find that obstructive and annoying, as I prefer an extraction port as close to the bit as possible that doesn't obstruct my view. Some users don't bother with mechanical dust-collecting at all, preferring to wear a good-quality mask instead.

So, to sum up, my ideal router would have all of the following:

• Soft start
• Suitable power for the intended use
• Variable speed (8,000rpm - 22,000rpm, for example)
• ½" dedicated collet, with other sizes of dedicated collet supplied, or available to order as extras
• A good plunge depth
• Single-wrench bit changing and a robust wrench supplied
• Simple and effective dust extraction port
• Well-known brand for after-sales and spares

Sorry if that was a bit lengthy - but saying "get this router, it's brilliant" doesn't help you much! I use Triton routers exclusively and have done so for many years. They have their followers and detractors, like practically everything else, so I try to suggest rather than recommend nowadays.

You'll find my reviews of my routers as follows:

• Smallest
• Medium Sized
• Largest

Hope that helped

Ray

I have a Triton 1/2 inch for the table and a bosch 1/4 in for hand held. The Bosch has been nothing but trouble. Bearing seixed after not much work at all, and the depth locking mechanism cracked off as well. The Triton is great. Hope this helps.

Ray,
Thanks for the informative post.

Mike

Just looking at photo's (without actually handling yet) I see some Routers have more erognomically or slanted handles as opposed to say the Triton with it's round knobs.
Any opinions on handle style/shape?

Thanks,
Mike

Well I've been looking about this afternoon and so far this is what I've seen.

The larger 1/2inch collet Triton, it had the most features, best guard, ergonomics (for me) was 'ok' but it was also the heaviest and most expensive (retail) by large margin. Too heavy for my needs hands free use.

Ryobi ERT1400 RG. Much lighter, felt good in my hands, only 1/4 inch collet, had what I thought was a handy micro adjust depth screw (in addition to the normal depth stop). Did not feel as well built as the Triton and I've had mixed results with Ryobi stuff but I did like it's features and feel. $119 retail.

Bosch POF1200AE, felt balanced to me, less features then the Ryobi and 1/4 inch collet. Bulid quality felt the same. $139 retail.

AEG RTL 350E. Again about same weight/ergonomics. The only one with a 1/2inch collet and 3yr warranty (the others in same class were 2). Less features then Ryobi but similar to Bosch.

The Ryobi and AEG stated they were soft starts the Bosch did not. All had speed control.

Great - now you can see why getting your hands on one is quite important. The AEG sounds like it will fit your needs well.

Ray

Ray as always is remarkably thorough. Listen to what he says, it's good advice.

I bought a cheap router first to see how much I used it. I used it a lot, I've now got 3.

Hitachi and Makita are regarded as the most durable. Triton and the other "quality" brands come in next. Unless your doing the experiment as I did I'd steer away from the cheapies. Ryobi and Bosch green included. These are often of comparible quality to ozito etc but dearer due to the name. I have Bosch blue tools and they are great, I have Bosch green tools and they...aren't... Ozito are variable. My cheapie router was $55, 1.5 hp with a set of bits and accessories. It was a great introduction but using it then picking up a triton is a profound experience.

Pity you weren't looking a few weeks back. Carbatec had the tritons on special and the smaller one is a nice all round machine.

It has been ascerted that 1/2 inch bits vibrate less. I don't know this for sure but if it's true that makes a big difference to your finish.

Some of the extra cost in dear bits is in the thickness of the blades, they will sharpen more times than cheaper bits. If you want a bit but will only use it occasionally a medium quality bit might suffice. Very cheap bits have other issues. I've heard of blades comming out in operation and flying off. Not what you want.

Thanks for the input Damian.

Mike

My advice for what its worth is buy a 1/2 inch router and buy some branded bits. I bought a second hand Bosch as my first, it came with a bit. Now I still have that bit, its still good. Many others have died. I bought 1/4 inch bits for specific jobs. OK they were cheap and most died. I bought an adaptor, I dont advise that. The bits seemed to wander in height. So my prime advice is what is the purpose you need the router for. A trimmer is useless as a plunger etc. So pick your function and look at what there is in that line.

Made an interesting observation, keeping in mind I was looking at the budget end of routers.
I noticed that the only brand to have minimal slop in the plunger arms was the cheapest Ozito at $89.

Worst was the AEG, followed by Ryobi then Bosch.

A larger Makita was pretty tight but as it was outside the size I was looking for I did not include it in my assesment.

By 'slop' I meant that if the router was depressed and locked into position and the base/sole/foot whatever you call it was on a flat surface and you rocked the body it was how much it moved about on the sprung arms.
Maybe it does not matter too much but I would have thought that the less movement possible the better.

The less slop the better.

When looking in stores, the big B particularly remember that the display machines are often abused by people (fiddling) looking, but it could also represent many years of use. See what the machines are like in another store, eg tool store where more serious buyers are likely to have played with them. I know that will be hard with Ryobi and Ozito as only one chain stocks them.

The hardest thing with choice is choosing.