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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    6

    Default Need advice on router bit

    Hi folks.


    I have a Ryobi One+ trim router, my first router, and I've only used it for a bit of practice so far. No previous router experience.

    The job I need to do is to trim out a 5 mm deep section at the end of several pieces of 70mm x 45mm pine, as shown in this image:


    Router post image.png
    I assume a router is the tool for this job, but it doesn't look like I have the right bit in my little box, so before I rush out and buy one I thought I better get confirmation first.

    My guess is I need a top-bearing Flush Trim bit, ideally with a 70+ mm cutting-edge. But after a fair bit of on-line searching I can't find any bits of that type over 50mm, and it seems the longer the cutting-edge the dearer the bit. I'm a pensioner just dabbling in minor home repairs and improvements, so I don't want to spend more than I have to.

    I do have a small bottom-bearing Flush Trim bit but the cutting-edge is only about 8 mm, and I can't see any way to use it for this job.

    Anyway, if my assumptions are correct so far, I figured I should be able to buy a 35+mm bit and cut from both sides.

    Lots of assumptions on my part, so any problems with my thinking?

    Also, is the bit diameter important? Isn't it just a matter of setting the guide rail back 5 mm from the edge of the work piece regardless of bit diameter?

    Thanks for any guidance you may feel like giving.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    55
    Posts
    677

    Default

    What is the application here ? For example, if building a pergola I would say saw and chisel ... If furniture .. Different answer.
    Glenn Visca

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Support beam for a benchtop in an alcove in a kitchen.
    Given that the depth required is only 5 mm wouldn't a router be much more accurate, quicker and require less manual skill?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    70mm flush trim bits do not exist and, even if they did, the router you have wouldn't have a hope of running one

    I'd be going at it totally differently. Instead of working off the edge with a long bit, work off the face with a short, wide bit that's set to 5mm deep. Start at the end and gradually work back to your 50mm line.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    You can make the cut many different ways, but to use a router I would use any straight cut router bit set to cut 5mm deep. Just clamp a straight edge away from your line so that when the baseplate of the router rests against the straightedge, the routerbit is cutting exactly 50mm in from the end of your timber. Then its just a case of carving the surface away starting from the end of the piece and moving towards your 50mm line.

    for example. if your router baseplate is 100mm square and is dead center to your router spindle and you are using a 1/4" bit. 100/2-3.175 = mark another line 46.825mm away from your 50mm line and clamp the straight edge to this line.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    55
    Posts
    677

    Default

    WHS x 2 [emoji3]
    Glenn Visca

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Age
    90
    Posts
    783

    Default

    Some form of router support will be required to prevent the router from 'Tipping'
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,973

    Default

    A simple table router job by the look of your pic

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Maitland
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Using a router is quite simple but with respect I would suggest that you practice a bit before you start doing your job. They can bite very quickly and do a lot of damage to the operator.

    If I were doing this job, I would start at the send of the job where you want the recess to start. (IE the end of the board), I would clamp a straight edge back so that I am only skimming the end of the board and then move the straight edge back to do the second run and keep doing this until i was back to where i want the recess to end.

    If you are using a 5mm bit set the straight edge back from the commencing edge so that you are taking a maximum of 5mm off.

    This may seem like a tedious way to do it but you will have control over the job as you are going and the router will be supported as it should be.

    If you clamp your straight edge at 90 degrees at all times from the first cut to the last you should only have a little bit of cleaning up to do.

    I use a Ryobi 18+ quite a lot and they are very good to use.

    Good luck

    Router

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks guys. If I'm understanding correctly, elanjacobs & kuffy both seem to be suggesting the same technique.

    I have what my small box of bits calls 3 x Straight Cutting Bits of 6mm, 12mm and 16mm. The way I read your instructions, of the bits I have the shape of those bits seem most suited to the job. If some other type would be better please say so and I'll buy it.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sth. Island, Oz.
    Age
    64
    Posts
    754

    Default

    I agree absolutely with the techniques recommended, with two provisos:

    (a) When cutting across end-grain you will inevitably get 'spelch' or furring of the 'exit' side of your rebate edge (i.e. the final cut up against the non-rebated edge), where the final few fibres will chip outwards under pressure from the rotating cutter. In extremis this will ruin the required neatness of the job. To avoid this a handsaw cut (with tenon saw pref.) to full depth @ this cut/uncut interface will eliminate this tendency.

    (b) You will require a straight edge clamped ACROSS the workpiece at the correct offset distance from your rebate's edge. This prevents rebating too much & keeps things straight.

    With these 2 approaches you will quickly and neatly accomplish your rebate freehand.

    I would also reiterate the other's advise to go slowly & carefully to avoid tipping the tool into your rebated edge. If you start at the far end first, working back towards your handsaw cut, or even if you leave behind some residual uncut micro-strips to support the tool's base which can be subsequently removed with a chisel this tendency can be either reduced or eliminated entirely.
    Sycophant to nobody!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,809

    Default Don't use a router for this if new to them

    Quote Originally Posted by Anonymouse View Post
    Hi folks.


    I have a Ryobi One+ trim router, my first router, and I've only used it for a bit of practice so far. No previous router experience.

    The job I need to do is to trim out a 5 mm deep section at the end of several pieces of 70mm x 45mm pine, as shown in this image:


    Router post image.png
    I assume a router is the tool for this job, but it doesn't look like I have the right bit in my little box, so before I rush out and buy one I thought I better get confirmation first.

    Thanks for any guidance you may feel like giving.
    My answer is that I do not believe that a router is the correct tool for you for this job. I know that you are asking how to use your trim router to do this, but, unless you have a router table or are very experienced you should be aware that there is an easier, safer way to get where you are going. The reason for this is that, as others have stated above, a router is a dangerous thing hand held, especially if inexperienced, and you can easily gouge holes in yourself or your work with it instead of the imagined lovely smooth job.

    If it were me I would carefully delineate the extent of the cut with a cutting gauge - no cutting gauge or pencil gauge? then use a steel ruler and a pencil. Not as easy or accurate but will suffice. Then use a fine crosscut saw/dovetail saw/Japanese pull saw to cut neatly and cleanly across the line at the extent of the cut and to the depth of the cut. Then cut a set of parallel cuts of the same depth back out to the end of the board. Take a sharp chisel and gently and gradually pare away the waste by hand (i.e. no mallet if possible), being guided as to depth by the lines and depth of your saw cuts. You can either finish with the paring, or for a smoother cut use a small block plane to finish the cut.

    It is easy to pare away, or plane away 5 mm of pine, and much safer than using a router not designed for that purpose. Using a chisel and a small block plane is much better practice for woodworking too.

    Other people might use a table saw to do this too - if you have one of those just search the internet for use of a table saw to cut tenons.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Age
    90
    Posts
    783

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Template Tom View Post
    Some form of router support will be required to prevent the router from 'Tipping'
    To continue

    This process can be achieved with the router, Not a trimmer, subject to having a suitable router capable of accepting a template guide. All that is required is to construct a suitable jig to hold the material secure during the process. If you are a true beginner with the use of the router that you say you are I would suggest that you get a few more lessons on how the router is used before you attempt such a process

    WHAT IS THE NUMBER OF PIECES OF MATERIAL TO BE PROCESSES ALSO THE LENGTH OF THE MATERIAL??
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Well, after borrowing some hints and tips from several of you I got the job done and got some practice and education in the process. As several of you suggested I removed the wood for the recess in strips by moving a clamped straight-edge back towards the 50mm line a bit at a time – tedious but safer than trying to freehand it. In the process I learnt that continuing to rout past a certain level of battery charge can cause the router bit to get flung away from the cutting surface. Fortunately didn't do any harm that wasn't correctable with the next pass. I did make one rookie mistake in setting the bit at exactly 5mm deep, which resulted in the recess being ever so slightly deeper than I intended after the cutaway surface was cleaned up. Not a serious problem though as I had a tiny bit of leeway.


    As luck would have it I became the owner of a plunge router two days after I had already done the job with the trim router. A mate who is heading off overseas for a couple of years gifted me with a few of his tools in return for past favours done.


    The plunge router is a Renegade R1200ER 1/4" with variable speed , listed at $88 from Trade Tools. Obviously it's not in the hotshot category but I'm grateful. I have decided to turn it into a table router. Plenty of instructional videos on YouTube. So far I like this guy's approach: https://youtu.be/HvSwOoUpZvA


    Thanks again to everyone for your helpful advice.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Hhi Anonymouse.

    Have you considered trying a local Men's Shed for some help with the router? I often go to a Shed here on the Central Coast and as luck has it, they have several retired cabinet makers as members. They have willingly helped me with tips and techniques. Just a thought. Tim

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