Thread: Space required for undertable Triton router

Jill, mine is 47cm deep by 45cm wide by 35 high enclosed. A larger space would give you more room if you need it but this sufficient. I also have the top on a piano hinge so if I need to get more access I just lift the top up and prop it open. This works well even with a woodpecker lift inside.

SB

Jill, I have the plans if you need any measurements or specific information.

Thanks Bob, I have a set of the NYW deluxe router table plans, but I am not sure if the router compartment is big enough, or too big, for the large Triton router. Becasue space is a premium for me, I would like to get it just right.

The information supplied by SuperBunny is very useful, ( thanks SB) but 450W compartment does seem a bit on the wide side

Just a thought, Jill, but you could take your router, grab hold of the left-hand handle and make a mark on a wall. Align the knuckles of your left hand with it, allow what you think is a sufficient gap, then position the router. Now grab hold of the right-hand handle, do the same, make a mark, measure between marks.

Having said all that, you could still save space by cutting down the left-hand measurement because you don't need to operate the left handle, just the on/off switch and you could angle the right-hand handle towards you a bit, reducing further the overall width.

I'm guessing that Norm made his for a Porter Cable monster, so you'll certainly be able to trim a bit off the plan's internal dimensions if you need to.

Ray

Jill, I built mine to the plans and have a 3hp Triton router installed with no problems. I also added an external switch (wood work supplies) that has made life sooo much easier.

Originally Posted by BobR

Jill, I built mine to the plans and have a 3hp Triton router installed with no problems. I also added an external switch (wood work supplies) that has made life sooo much easier.

I too, have done this without a problem.

Squirrel.

Thanks BobR and Squirrel for this information. As you might realise, I am trying to reduce the width of the router compartment opening to suit a smaller table, and make the router bit drawers wider than 6" ( 150mm)

The ID of the compartment from the plan was 17" ( ~430mm), which from what you guys say, looks like the way to go, but I will give Ray's suggestion a go.

Many thanks for your help

Jill, I intend installing my TRA001 into a Kreg table on a custom cabinet. Not done yet but I have test fit the router to the Kreg insert plate (9.25 x 11.75 in). The router is wider across the handles than the plate, but my intentions to overcome this are;

1. Remove and store the fixed handle on the router (2 screws)
2. Mount the router so that the handles are oriented corner to corner across the plate, set up for best access to the power switch (through table bit changing interlock) and access to height adjustment on the remain handle and the micro adjuster.

In this configuration the router is fully contained on the insert footprint and can be lifted from and replaced in the table if needed. Some additional space in the compartment would be handy to accomodate hands to setting up the unit. I would also be using an external switch, but need access to the router switch because of the interlock system.

1. Remove and store the fixed handle on the router (2 screws)
2. Mount the router so that the handles are oriented corner to corner across the plate

Thanks for this information, malb, it is very helpful.

I am not sure about the fixed handle removal. In the end, will you only have the one handle?

I removed the fixed handle and made a metal disc to block the resulting hole; that does make access easier.

Having one handle doesn't matter because you don't use that handle anyway. You use one hand on the winding handle and the other underneath the router.

Other tips are:

- mark the side of the speed adjust knob so you can see the speed. I used a felt tip to make one line for low, two for medium and three for high.

- remember that you can change the orientation of the travel lock lever. So you can push down to tighten and lift to release.

My main problem was that there was electromagnetic interference between the Triton and the Wixey height gauge. I eventually fixed it after many attempts, so if anybody has the same problem I'll post my solution. According to the supplier it is only a problem with the Triton.

A couple of pics that might help. The opening is 500 wide.

Ideally the router would be turned anticlockwise (looking from the top) about 45 degrees. I haven't checked if the holes in the lift allow that.

Note that you need more space on the left side than the right, it need not be symmetrical.

Sorry to disagree, Glen, but your installation is using a router lift and your winding handle and fine adjuster are virtually inaccessible. Jill, AFAIK, won't be using a lift, so her router will need to be fitted 180º to your configuration, meaning more space on the right.

Ray

Yes, no lift for me at this stage

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Sorry to disagree, Glen, but your installation is using a router lift and your winding handle and fine adjuster are virtually inaccessible. Jill, AFAIK, won't be using a lift, so her router will need to be fitted 180º to your configuration, meaning more space on the right.

Ray

I didn't realize Jill won't be using a lift, and in that case I agree because I had it the other way round when I had it in the Triton table without the lift. Very much the lesser of two evils though because that meant fumbling for the switch and locking lever as well as going to the back to adjust the speed.

I must say that if I was making such an great table I'd definitely be fitting a lift. But there may be another way round it because I notice Professional Woodwork Supplies are selling a Triton "Router Raizer" for $85 which apparently lets you adjust the height from above the table.