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Thread: Balance Point
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20th July 2006, 10:29 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2005
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Balance Point
Using my router in a table mostly I had just about forgotten how I used to "muscle" the router freehand when routing edge rebates. The tipping action is not too bad on the straight runs but can become very tedious when working near the corners.The balance point is not where I need it to be - wrists and arms don't appear to be as good as they used to be. Years ago I bought an extension plate with a handle off to one side which should fit most routers -- unfortunately mine doesn't fit into the most category.
I have found that the outrigger works well - easier on the wrists, arms and back as I'm now not "fighting" the tipping action. Seems to be too simple - I should have thought of it before [perhaps others have] - If it works for you - great.
Using the fence adjuster mechanism + a scrap of 10mm thick stainless as an outrigger to shift the balance point ~
Pix 1 = balance point which shows the bit well over the timber
Pix 2 = balance point with the "outrigger" attached
Pix 3 = underneath - velcro sliders
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20th July 2006, 10:41 AM #2Template Tom
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
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- Perth Western Australia
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- 90
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- 784
Router support
Bob
Add a simple router support to your side fence attachment which is adjustable for a number of thicknesses of materialLearn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides
Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'
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20th July 2006, 11:04 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2005
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- Queensland
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Thanks Tom,
I was using a bearing bit and routing largish [otherwise I would have done them on the table] panels to be fitted into doors. Shifting the balance point has made it easier in any handheld situation for me.
Your idea would work well for me if the bearing bolt was not just protruding the thickness of the material and where the "original" is held onto a flat surface. I'll certainly keep it in mind for later.
Regards,
Bob
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