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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    The bit you've linked to is NOT a planing bit, it's designed to cut a groove/slot in wood. The idiot who's listed it intimates that it is a planing bit by including a picture of a plane, but he doesn't say it is a planing bit. The cutting faces are aligned at 90 degrees to the direction you want.
    I'm not seeing much difference between the Banggood one I linked to and this planing router bit from Torquata at Timbecon - https://www.timbecon.com.au/torquata...ing-router-bit - am I missing something?

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  3. #17
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    This is my planing cutter. What you can see is a back relief on both the side and the bottom of the cutter which means the bit can cut with both surfaces.
    It maybe the photo but it’s hard to see any back relief on the bottom of the cutter on the Banggood bit.

    46451E30-791E-40CF-A83B-EC281FB38A28.jpg3962AB17-3F80-4E09-91EF-5A1874503972.jpg

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSD View Post
    am I missing something?
    Yep. Look at the angle of the cutting surfaces to the shank. The one you've linked to has a large positive 'hook' angle on the vertical face while the Timbecon one has totally different geometry that is much more clearly directed to the flat upper cutting surface, including a eased front edge and a relief between the leading edge and the following edge of the horizontal carbide tips. The Banggood one you linked to would tear the timber to bits and send the router flying.

  5. #19
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    This is what a good planing surfacing cutter looks like.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    I've been thinking about what you would do with that bit, cut deep grooves. Wouldn't you be better off using a spiral upcut bit? Much less scary and a considerably better finish. Maybe you have a purpose for it that I haven't envisaged.
    The pictured cutter is a fly cutter, it’s for cutting grooves in edges of flat panels or boards, typically a groove in the bottom of a sliding door to take a floor guide. They work well because the baseplate of the router is running on the flat face of the panel, rather than trying to keep the router square on a thin edge. But, the pictured cutter is inherently dangerous, as the angle of attack of the cutting tips is very acute, it would grab and bite hard, making the router difficult to control.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    This is my planing cutter. What you can see is a back relief on both the side and the bottom of the cutter which means the bit can cut with both surfaces.
    It maybe the photo but it’s hard to see any back relief on the bottom of the cutter on the Banggood bit.

    46451E30-791E-40CF-A83B-EC281FB38A28.jpg3962AB17-3F80-4E09-91EF-5A1874503972.jpg
    I
    the other important part of this cutter ( it’s the exact same as mine) is that it has plenty of body behind the cutting tip, which not only makes it strong, but because it extends back towards the next tip, it limits the amount of chip that can be removed, stopping the cutter tearing out too much and wanting to rip the router backwards, towards the poor bugger holding it. Here’s a tip- NEVER, EVER, back cut with one of these cutters, it will bite you, hard.

  8. #22
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    Cheers everyone - still learning obviously!

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSD View Post
    Cheers everyone - still learning obviously!
    Better to ask questions and learn than learn by experience and have 3 hp of wild router out of your hands and bounce all over the floor looking for victims (which I have witnessed happen before)

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    Better to ask questions and learn than learn by experience and have 3 hp of wild router out of your hands and bounce all over the floor looking for victims (which I have witnessed happen before)
    Totally agree - especially as having coming from the oil industry where if things go wrong they usually go wrong big time

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    I
    the other important part of this cutter ( it’s the exact same as mine) is that it has plenty of body behind the cutting tip, which not only makes it strong, but because it extends back towards the next tip, it limits the amount of chip that can be removed, stopping the cutter tearing out too much and wanting to rip the router backwards, towards the poor bugger holding it. Here’s a tip- NEVER, EVER, back cut with one of these cutters, it will bite you, hard.
    Do you have a link to that cutter?

  12. #26
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    That pictured cutter is mine. I bought it from Carbitool - I linked to it in an earlier post.

    Heres the link

    6 Flute - Surface Planer - Carbide Tipped - Carbitool

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    The pictured cutter is a fly cutter, it’s for cutting grooves in edges of flat panels or boards, typically a groove in the bottom of a sliding door to take a floor guide. They work well because the baseplate of the router is running on the flat face of the panel, rather than trying to keep the router square on a thin edge. But, the pictured cutter is inherently dangerous, as the angle of attack of the cutting tips is very acute, it would grab and bite hard, making the router difficult to control.
    Why would you want to cut a >35mm deep groove in the bottom of a door. Even if you did want to a spiral cutter with suitable base support for the router and guide would be so much safer. If using a grooving cutter of that style the baseplate of the router might be running on the flat face of the panel, but only if you manage to complete the cut without tilting the router, very difficult to do with a hand held router when using an aggressive bit.

    You don't have to convince me how dangerous that cutter is.

  14. #28
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  15. #29
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    When I was making my outdoor table, I had to cut a recessed groove in the frame to take the recycled floor boards. I used that planing cutter I linked to, to do the job with the cutter safely mounted in the router table.

    That cutter allowed me to increase dimension A. When I rang Carbitool with my query about what to use to do the job, that was the bit they recommended.

    CA2B2F7F-1A69-4C7F-9B51-41B0DB5F30AC.jpg

    Before I got my thicknesser, I also used it to plane down the tendon stock for my loose tenons for the same table. That was scary - never again.

  16. #30
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    That's hugely more expensive than the one I linked to, and the price of the inserts is absolutely ridiculous. No hobbyist could justify that. That head also offers a lot of things you don't need, plunging for example. It looks like the surfacing is done by only the 5/64" (2mm) edge on the inserts, that can't be good for their longevity.

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