Thread: Can you use a bevel bit for accurate bevels for a box

I think I am talking about mitre joints. Is there a differnce when refering to the joint type.

Just found a lock mitre router bit.
Is this the way to go ? Or am I wasting limit funds on a router bit I don't need.

If you have a tilting arbour saw, this is a better way to produce a mitre joint.

If you want to produce a mitre joint with your router, then purchase a quality locking mitre joint sized to the timber you will be using. You can produce a perfect mitre joint with a table mounted router, but you should practice this joint carefully using scrap first. The setup is critical and takes time. Save your perfected practice piece to set up the router bit and fence for subsequent mitres.

Lee Valley has good instructions on the procedure involved on their site.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=1&SID=

When you get there, click on "instructions".

Hi Don
I looked at LeeValleys site couldnt find the stuff on lock mitre joints, although I didnt look too hard. ( just followed your link )
Have you made any LM joints?
I've got a bit, but never tryed it, would love to know the technique.

Cheers, Allan

you can make mitre joints with a router, but as you are finding out it is a complex method. If you want to do it a lot easier there are several options.
1. a tenon saw and a mitre box.
2. use a table saw and sled
3. use a mitre saw (drop saw) it shouldnt need to be a sliding compound saw unless you are making a large box.
4. fopget about a mitred joint and dovetail it instead

Echnidna, you may be correct. Mastering the locking mitre bit isn't easy.

Allan, go back to the link above. When you get there, just below the line "45° Lock Mitre Bit" in the table is Instr , click on this for the instructions.

I've done some experimenting with this kind of bit. As long as you follow the setup procedure exactly, and use the appropriately sized bit for the timber being mitred, it will produce a clean interlocking joint with lots of gluing surface.

Lee Valley has given me permission to reproduce these instructions in our upcoming newsletter, THE TRITON WOODWORKER, so readers of that publication will find clear fully illustrated instructions at www.tritonwoodworkers.org.au in a few days.

Echidna,
Unfortunately options 1 3 and 4 are no good for this. I am making rear speaker stands. This part is a square tube 1100mm long, with a side width of 70mm.
Admittedly, dovetails would look mighty impressive, I definetly dont have the skills to run dovetails over the 1100 span.

DPB: I like the look/idea of the lock mitre. I will give this a go.
I have a triton saw, but the thing takes so long to setup up that I am scared to alter the angle on the blade. I may not get it square again.

I've only cut a few 45 degree bevels on my Triton, but I quickly found that it's much easier if you clamp a longish bit of wood to your workpiece, and have this bit of wood ride along the top of the fence.

Not much fun trying to guide the workpiece neatly across the gap in the 45 degree side of the fence by hand.

Cheers,
Andrew

trying to cut mitres on a triton is a futile exercise.

you could do plain mitres with a router but it isn't the easiest or most efficient way.
you may have problems with depth of cut unless you buy a huge mitre bit.

i recon
take the circ saw out of the triton & run it agains a clamped straight egde.

you will need to do some test cuts to work out your blade off set but it can work well.

and it wont cost you much.

you will need a good straight edge. steel or aly rhs is good.

cheers

stay away from the lock mitre bits unless you are prepared to fiddle & get them just right.

just do nice but joints.

I agree with Soundman.

Whilst you see mitre joints made all the time on DIY shows, this joint is one of the most difficult to make accurately and the least structurally sound. As a matter of fact, I don't believe most of the DIY demo's of this joint.

(Anyone can do the first three sides of a picture frame. It's when you get to the last mitre that the smallest of inaccuracies become evident.)

Hem, perhaps I am not reading you correctly - but you cannot tilt the blade of your circular saw when mounted in the Triton Workcentre. Given the length of the joint you wish to make, Soundman's advice to use a simple butt-joint is a good alternative.

Andrew, cutting a 45 degree mitre on the bevelled surface of your Triton Workcentre fence is not practical. If you are going to use your Triton Workcentre, use the larger bevel cutting guide. But even with this, you won't find it easy.

A big part of achieving good results is knowing the limitations of your tools. Attempting to do something that is at the outside margins of your equipment's capabilities usually results in a less than satisfactory result, wastes material, and may introduce unsafe procedures.

DPB,

perhaps my description wasn't sufficiently detailed, but after my first try at bevelling on the Triton, which seemed about as unsatisfactory as the post which started this thread, all the subsequent cuts were fine.

I found that my problems were when the board being bevelled was only supported at one end; ie: at the start and end of the board, when the cut end was floating in space, and the other end was supported on the ledge of the 45 degree fence.

By using a bit of clamped on scrap as a rail to run along the top of the fence (sort of like a bench hook), the wood was supported in the same position as it passed the blade, and the cuts were fine.

IMHO, and for my purposes, the 45 degree fence on the Triton is a practical way to bevel.

Cheers,
Andrew

Soundman,
This could be the excuse I have been looking for to convince the SWMBO I need another "smaller" circ saw.
Don't like taking the saw out of the trition WC + Dust bag etc...takes ages to get correct again.

Andrew, I think I know what you mean. Drew a quick pict but can't get it to attach.

Off to buy some flowers now

Hem,

Since your post I had a look at the Triton video and according to the video it is your technique that is the problem.

The cuts not being at 45 % is a set up error and the burn marks are from holding the work incorrectly. Have a look at the video as it shows you how to set it up correctly, how to hold the work and some jigs to make it easier for small pieces.

Whilst the Triton bevel ripping guide would be much better, the 45 % bevel fence, with effort, can give acceptable results.


Peter.

Ahh, the video.
I own the videos but no video player. My player broke a while ago and I can't justify a new one. Only have dvd player now.
I am still trying to find someone who can transfer the video to dvd for me.

I have no doubt it is my technique that is mostly at fault.

Hi all,
An update: Picked up a lock mitre bit from Carba-tec on the weekend. They have moved btw.
Definetly takes a while to setup correctly ...and lots of test pieces. Especially if you are an amature like myself (enjoying the learning though). Haven't got it right yet.

Watched the video again and made the jig and retried the bevel rips. Better result, but still not perfect. And from what I can tell it may never be. What is making it harder is that I am bevelling 12mm particle verneed board, with the grain. Since the face edge is on the inside of the fence. The blade does not give it a nice sharp cut. The inside, the side no one will see - cuts sharp as a tac - since the blade cuts into this side first.

Unless I can find a way to reverse the cut i.e have the facing edge facing up I may get somewhere.
Same thing is happening with the lockmitre bit on the router.